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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #21  
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Hey let me know what you found out about the ABS light I have the same problem on my 96. Have the ABS and brake light on at all times and I think that on mine there is only one ABS sensor located on the diff
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #22  
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Will do. I am going tomorrow to a dealership and my buddy will read it.




Originally Posted by angelo
Hey let me know what you found out about the ABS light I have the same problem on my 96. Have the ABS and brake light on at all times and I think that on mine there is only one ABS sensor located on the diff
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
oops. do our trucks have an ABS diagnostic port/flashing light thing that blinks a code for where the fault is.
No,

You have to have an ABS scanner to read CEL in the ABS system.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #24  
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Had the ABS codes read today....

Every single ABS trouble code showed up, front wheels had 2 codes each and rear wheels had some as well.

I have no clue how to attack this.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #25  
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Reset the codes, and as SOON as the lite comes back on, find out what the code is. If they ALL reset again, just unplug the motor controller.... should kill the lights too. (at least, it does on GM vehicles.....)
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #26  
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Some more updates.

Changed thermostat and gasket today (was leaking)

Observed plenum, no oil observed and magnet stuck right to it. 197,000 miles and original plenum??

Considering heater core, I want to be able to do it without disconnecting AC lines.

Considering rear main seal, read the pavement sucks article and seems doable.

I am going to flush my brake fluid to try and clear my ABS light.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #27  
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rear main is a little scary, but not bad. hardest part is getting the #%^$@ starter off. mine was torqued to about 250 pounds. it took both arms, 1/2 in breaker about 2 feet long, both feet pushing on the frame. also about 18 inches of 1/2 extension to get the breaker beyond the engine mount. consider replacing oil pump with melling high volume.

is your dash cracked yet?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #28  
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Yes, the dash is cracked

The starter was recently removed to do the freeze out plug behind it. Shop was 300 to do rear main seal and I am considering it because the will probably be driven nuts with the heater core replacement.



Originally Posted by dhvaughan
rear main is a little scary, but not bad. hardest part is getting the #%^$@ starter off. mine was torqued to about 250 pounds. it took both arms, 1/2 in breaker about 2 feet long, both feet pushing on the frame. also about 18 inches of 1/2 extension to get the breaker beyond the engine mount. consider replacing oil pump with melling high volume.

is your dash cracked yet?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #29  
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check for blown ABS fuse if that has not been suggested yet.
 
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