It hasn't worked since I bought it a few monthes ago. Theres no light on the button. I've got no abs or any other warning lights on, no cel. I traced the lines and removed and closely checked the unit itself, but theres no damage or cracks anywhere. I took the switches apart as per the diy, but still nothing. I get 5v (key on, not running) between the white and orange wire at the switch, nothing at any other wires there. I can't get anymore then .12v at the servo at anytime. Is there another connector somewhere? Any other thoughts?
Thanks!

 

The brake light switch on the brake pedal can cause problems as well as a damaged wire running along side the steering column.

 

Ok, how do I test the brake switch? The brake lights both work properly, but as I understand it, the cruise circut is just part of that connector and one doesn't nessesarily affect the other?

 

The DIY to clean the switch doesn't mean it will work if the switch is toast. And the clock spring has something to do with it to.

 

Nothing in the switch looked cracked or burnt, but I know that doesn't really mean it's good. Is the 5v source at the connector for the switch right? I still have the switch out, so I'll play around with it and see if theres power going through to the proper places.....

 

Look in the FAQ section for the 96 FSM download if it's in there yet, it' will have wiring diagrams. I'm pretty sure the clock spring has a lot to do with it. Does the horn work?

 

Yep, everything els works properly. I can't see any broken wires along the steering column. Is it possible to test the clockspring without tearing it all apart?

 

With an expensive scanner maybe. Get on from a JY and try that.

 

I think you can test the switch, and the clockspring, at the same time, with a meter, set on a 10K Ohm scale.

There are three wires for the cruise switch, (this test is done on the switch side of connector 133......) There are three wires you are going to be dealing with, Main wire is going to be black, with a Light Blue trace. Clip one lead of your meter to that one. Insert the other probe into the cavity for Red wire, with light green trace. Should be infinite resistance with no switches pressed.

Hit the power button. Should see resistance of just under 1K ohms. (releasing the button will send the meter back to infinite resistance.)

Press the Resume/Accel button. Resistance should be about 15.4K ohms.

Press the Set/Coast button. Resistance should be about 6.6K ohms.

If all those values are correct, then the switch, and the clockspring are good.

In all reality, the yellow with red trace wire is the power feed. (but, you won't see anything on that wire on the switch side, when it is disconnected. ) I am going to guess that since the power originates at the PCM, it is more'n likely a 5v signal.

Wiring diagrams start on page 8W-33-3 of the 96 service manual, that you can find here.

 

Thanks! Though my wires are mostly different colors, I found the two you ment, and they tested as you said. So I'll look into the brake switch and see how it's doing.