v10 RAM no start....frustrated
Download the service manual for your truck from here. Wiring diagrams are in section 8W. There are also connector pinouts, and charts for their location.
If the fuel pump primes, then it's likely the ASD relay is working as well. Keep in mind, you will only have power at the coils for a few seconds at initial key on. After that, the PCM needs to see the engine turning, to continue to supply power.
Are you getting injector pulse? Is their power to the injectors??
Not clear on what you have already done, did you replace cam and crank sensors? Are you still getting codes??
If the fuel pump primes, then it's likely the ASD relay is working as well. Keep in mind, you will only have power at the coils for a few seconds at initial key on. After that, the PCM needs to see the engine turning, to continue to supply power.
Are you getting injector pulse? Is their power to the injectors??
Not clear on what you have already done, did you replace cam and crank sensors? Are you still getting codes??
So i have changed both cam and crank sensors. I havent been able to find a new cam sensor so i bought a parts tryck and took the one from that but it is an 01 so i had to rewire it but i just drove out to california to get a new can sensor out of a 96 which should have everything the same as the 94. When i got the truck there was no cam or crank sensor there was no coil packs or the mounting bracket no radiator fan shroud or anything and i havent seen any codes come up on it. Im getting a node light tester today to check if im getting pulse. I dont believe that the injectors are the problem seeing that i know for a fact im not getting any spark once so ever. Im gonna put on new coil packs and see if that helps any but it did read that the coil packs i had on there had good resistance and were in good condition also i requested access for the manual if someone could approve it that would be awesome
Well i chose to go with the new coil packs to go back to original wire connectors. I had to rewire it for the other coil packs due to when i got the truck there were no coil packs at all. Could it be a faulty crank sensor seeing that the crank sensor is the one that send the ignite signal?
I think the way the coil packs were controlled changed from 95 to 96..... but, not sure just what the differences were. I think there was an intermediate controller stashed away in there somewhere.
You might be able to test the crank sensor with an analog VOM. (the one with the needle) Test for voltage on the signal return wire, and see if the needle jumps or wiggles while cranking....
You might be able to test the crank sensor with an analog VOM. (the one with the needle) Test for voltage on the signal return wire, and see if the needle jumps or wiggles while cranking....
I don't fully understand what you have going on, but if you are mixing new and old parts, '94-95 ONLY have a separate ignition module located behind the washer reservoir, fires four of the cylinders. Very, very hard to find, no longer made. Old engine will run with new harness, ECM, sensors, etc, like wise new to old. Connector pinouts and sensors are the same, connectors different.That wiring diagram does not cover '94-'95. That DK GRN/OR wire looks spliced in, why no idea,somebody trying to solve old problem, maybe. Believe I have seen that wire in another V-10 ignition post this forum. If it it factory, my guess is goes to a heavy condenser to calm circuit noise.DK GRN/OR wire should have battery voltage anywhere you find it in the harness with ASD on. Coil, injectors, etc.
Last edited by 69_XS29L; Oct 23, 2022 at 11:50 AM.
Early bus/firmware could only handle so much data, therefore extra ignition module. Cylinders fire in pairs, with Harley style waste spark, off of crank reference. Cam signal only tells computer where the crank is in 4 stroke rotation. Engine will fire for second, shut off if no proper cam signal found. Cam gear only is different from OBDI to OBD II, '94-'95 and '96 later. Computer will not recognize the wrong cam gear. I changed my '95 to newer intake to get rebuilt 4 hole injectors. Left the EGR wiring and solenoid hooked up, but no EGR. Works fine. Cam and crank sensors for OBD I are pretty much non-existent.
In november of 2023 my engine blew up. I was devastated. I didn't know the difference between a spark plug and a torque converter. Everyone said junk it, it's not worth the time it money. But I refused believe that! Not knowing a single thing I began to pull my V10 engine in to the dirt and snow. I am 120 lbs and that was no day at the park. I had the help of a 3 ton engine hoist, 3 ratchet straps, 2 jacks and some 6 foot long cement blocks which I wrapped the straps around coming from 3 different angles to move the engine hoist in different directions. I found a chassis for a 96 dodge v10 about 4 hours from my house. I paid someone to drive me and my rinky dink trailer 4 hours away to get it. It barely fit on the trailer. It's tires were hanging of the sides about. We managed to strap it down real good and drove slow til we made it home. I finally got my engine out and managed to the replacement engine in. It came with a transmission too so I thought i would just throw that in too. When the transmission wouldn't touch my driveline I knew something was wrong. This is how I learned what a transfer case was and that I had bought a 2 wheel drive set up for my 4 wheel drive truck. So I removed the 2 wheel drive tranny and put my 4 wheel drive tranny back in. When someone asked me about the torque converter I said "the what? And that is when I became aware of what a torque converter is that I had not put it in. So I removed the transmission again removed my converter from the blown engine and put it in the replacement engine and put the tranny back in. My truck is a 97 4 wheel drive and the replacement engine is a 96 two wheel drive. Some of the plugs are different, do I cut off some from the old harness and added them to the replacement harness. Everyone my son and people at work laughed at me and said It would never work. I refused to believe that. I would drive my truck again. It took me 4 months of weekends in the snow and one night I turned the key and she started up!!! It brought tears to my eyes and I never cry! The throttle cable was broke so she was very loud and only for a second. They no longer make throttle cables for my truck so I had to get another one and it's being held on with a Set of mini vise grips. During the first few months I was having problems with the smog pump. They no longer make those either. You cannot buy one at a junk yard because ( the engine won't run without it) is what they told me. Well mine locked up and shredded my belt one day. Luckily I had the one off the other engine and a spare belt in the back of my truck. So I changed the smog pump on the side of the road and drove home. I was still having problems with so I did some research and discovered you don't need a smog pump! So I took it out, I bought a different size belt and a different pulley cause the belt runs a little different now. I drove her for 7 months until a few weeks ago the engine just started quietly shutting down while I was driving. No noises, no stutters, just quietly turned off. I would sit on the side of the road for. While and she would start back up and drive for a Bit and again quietly shut down. I am still learning things as I have to fix them. I still basically no nothing but I won't give up. I will keep learning and keep her going. I was getting code P0320 p0743, p0753 now let me tell you.... Everyone thinks they have the answer. I am not longer listening to the people at the auto parts stores. They really don't know what they are talking about. I have been trying to research solutions instead. But I m at a Loss right now. I have replaced the
Fuel pump
Front fuel line
MAP sensor
Both ignition coils
Vehicle speed sensor
Throttle position sensor
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Rear ABS wheel speed sensor
Both 02 sensors
Cam sensor
And still dying while I drive. Finally I changed the crankshaft sensor and now she no longer will start. She is not throwing any codes but will not start. She cranks but that is it. I have tested the battery, the sensor plugs, the coil plugs, the fuses, the relays, and everything is getting power. I checked the grounds, I made sure all the connectors are tightly connected and producing voltage. I even swapped the ECU for the one from the other truck and still nothing. I direct wired the ignition to the starter with a relay this time. It only took frying 3 starters until I figured out I needed to add a relay on there. But I don't know where to go from here. I have ordered a new mass airflow sensor but am still awaiting it's arrival. Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Fuel pump
Front fuel line
MAP sensor
Both ignition coils
Vehicle speed sensor
Throttle position sensor
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Rear ABS wheel speed sensor
Both 02 sensors
Cam sensor
And still dying while I drive. Finally I changed the crankshaft sensor and now she no longer will start. She is not throwing any codes but will not start. She cranks but that is it. I have tested the battery, the sensor plugs, the coil plugs, the fuses, the relays, and everything is getting power. I checked the grounds, I made sure all the connectors are tightly connected and producing voltage. I even swapped the ECU for the one from the other truck and still nothing. I direct wired the ignition to the starter with a relay this time. It only took frying 3 starters until I figured out I needed to add a relay on there. But I don't know where to go from here. I have ordered a new mass airflow sensor but am still awaiting it's arrival. Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Find out what you are missing. Its going to be either spark, or fuel.
Your truck doesn't use a mass airflow sensor. It is speed-density, so, just the map sensor.
These trucks are downright notorious for not liking aftermarket sensors in critical locations. If you got one of the el-cheapo generic crank position sensors..... I would verify spark first, as I expect you aren't getting it.
Your truck doesn't use a mass airflow sensor. It is speed-density, so, just the map sensor.
These trucks are downright notorious for not liking aftermarket sensors in critical locations. If you got one of the el-cheapo generic crank position sensors..... I would verify spark first, as I expect you aren't getting it.
I can hear my fuel pump engaging when I turn the key to on. I read that you are correct most of these trucks don't have a mass airflow sensor but the 96 V10 gas engine does. I sure hope so cause I ordered one that said it was for my truck. It was not easy to find either. Maybe I'm wrong I guess when it gets here Ill find out for sure lol. I tested my spark plugs with the little tester you out on the coil and then connect to the spark plug wires. As I'm saying that I think I may have done it wrong. Should I have put that tester on the spark plugs not the ignition coil? I checked all my injectors with a multimeter and they were all good.








