HA!!! there is a magnet on the floor of the housing integrated into the housing.. in theory, anything metal and out of place will be stuck to it.. most often, that is where you find them, but (also in theory) they can get in the gears themselves and wreak havoc.. grenade the thing.. not good..

if you pull the cover, allow it to drain for a good bit.. then use a flashlight and look closely at all the gears, and what's hanging out in cracks and crevices in there.. if your clips have given way, it will be apparent- there will be little strips of metal in there somewhere that aren't attached..

edited to add: you can even block your rear axle, and spin the diff to get a really good look in there.. I'd rec it to be honest.. this allows you to see any 'rough' spots on either the ring or pinion.

 

As you have a 2500 your rear diff is a Dana 60 or Dana 70 here are some links, so you can get better informed about diffs.


http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?prod=AXL

SERVICE MANUAL: 60 TRAC LOC LIMITED SLIP

SERVICE MANUAL: 60/70 POWR/TRAC LOC L/S

 

The factory LSD sucks but is pretty good as far as functionality.
For people running stock-size tires on stock trucks that aren't abused they should last. But then again, that is what they were intended for.
I am running 285's, the truck isn't (really) abused, and I have the stock LSD and I can break both tires loose, granted, that's in dirt but I also only have 3.55's.

What everyone generally does is when the stock LSD grenades, they replace it with a Detroit TrueTrack and upgraded gears.

 

dude....4.56!?!?!?

Here is a link to a previous post of mine to lend you a hand:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2597857-post9.html

I was running 33x12.5x17 Dick Cepek FC-2 tires for about 2.5 years before this. In my case, the clips or actually the dished spacer (maybe) split in half and remained in place. The edges now became super duper files, resulting in shaving the clutch plates. The other damage, unrelated I think, was a pit in a bearing race.

It looks like page 9 of the 1st link by merc255 shows the exploded parts view.



How could I grenade my faster? Replaced mine back in 2009. I want an ARB.

 

^Drive it harder.
Then again, just pretty much just replaced it. Sooo, it might be a while.

 

Having to break it under "reasonable" conditions is the name of the game when you've got shared ownership of the purse strings.

 

^Well, you're screwed then.

 

"How could I grenade my faster? Replaced mine back in 2009. I want an ARB. "

Drain some oil and go for a ride that will kill it fast. As for an ARB for a 91/4 it's not made.

I can sell you a grenaded Detroit locker lol.... not fixable......

 

Pessimist

Defeatist!!

 

Well thats a bit different, do an oil change on the rear diff and forget to put the additive in, should take about 2 months to go bad.