You can try heat, but that will most likely ruin the o2. Although it's probably no good anyway.

 

only heat i have is propane, i dont think it will get it hot enough, especially with the breeze right now

 

Did you go by this, and trace each wire from cap to the plug?

 

Have you checked to see if the rotor is in fact at/on cyld 1 on the cap with the motor at tdc comp stroke?

 

yes, i went by that and ive traced and re-traced 3-4 times now. im as we speak here trying to wire in the obd2 data plug so i can read codes. hey you was saying it could be arcing in the wires, they are less than a yr old and are just cheapy oreilly brand. i really dont have money to throw at this truck anymore but i could go get new cap rotor and wires again if it fixes the problem. my problem is if i spend the 60 bucks and it doesnt fix it then im out that money too.

unplug coil and it cranks as should, plugged in and it cranks 2-3 revolutions and then really dies down and voltage drops to about 8.5v...

 

i havent checked the rotor against the engine, but i didnt completely remove the distributor or even loosen the nut, nor did i do anything with the timing chain and it ran before so i going under the assumption that the distributor has to be in sync

 

Might not be a bad idea to have a look, just to eliminate it as a possibility........

 

I'd try and get the o2 out first. If that doesn't help, I would replace the cam sensor before replacing cap rotor and wires.

 

i did replace the cam sensor with no luck

this is going to sound stupid, whats the best way to find #1 tdc on compression?

 

Oh, I thought you replaced the crank sensor.