190k miles advice to keep her going strong
#51
I'm seeing timing as a function of the whole instead of the intervals that the coil is told to fire.
Last edited by jlowmiller; 10-07-2011 at 02:12 PM.
#52
#54
I use the term "fixed" in the sense that it isn't something that you can just change some weights, or move the distributor, to adjust it. (yes, I remember those days....... springs too.... ) Advance curves are all in the programming. If ya wanna chance ignition advance (and have the engine actually run...) ya gotta do it with programming. Or, at the cam..... Or, move the crank sensor.... and event then, you are just changing base timing, won't affect the curve at all.
I have been curious how advancing the came 4 degrees would affect everything else.... as fuel atomization is kinda dependent on where the intake valve is, when the injector fires.......
In any event, we are WAY off topic here.... and have been for some time. If you wanna continue this discussion, just blast me off a PM.
Sorry 'bout that OP......
I have been curious how advancing the came 4 degrees would affect everything else.... as fuel atomization is kinda dependent on where the intake valve is, when the injector fires.......
In any event, we are WAY off topic here.... and have been for some time. If you wanna continue this discussion, just blast me off a PM.
Sorry 'bout that OP......
#56
#57
Trans was rebuilt about 50k or so ago. I pull an enclosed trailer daily weighing in around 4-5k up and down hills
I look for newer trucks but prices for something around 2002 are to high to pay cash. Have refused to take loans for anything. Being in the lawn service bus. i'm always afraid of a dry winter so I enjoy not ever having to worry about the repo man.
but im thinking if I can keep her happy till spring then maybe I can sadly trade her for somthing newer
#58
Check valve is in the trans cooler line going to the bottom fitting on the radiator, follow the line back from the radiator and it turns to a soft line, at the end of that, is another metal fitting, and then a flare nut that screws into it. that metal fitting is the check valve. It likes to get plugged up, and then you get NO flow. and your transmission slowly burns itself up.