Anything you can do to help the power feed is best. Those older electric fans like the Fords' (Lincoln Mark VIII, Taurus, etc.) draw CRAZY amounts of amps. They draw over 100A at startup, and many baboons simply connect it straight to the battery without a fuse. Then they wonder why their truck started on fire one day...

If you can, after you get the Bonneville fan installed, let us know how many amps it pulls at startup and while running. Very curious to compare it to the Ford fans.

 

I've got the big stock alternator, 136 amp I believe. It's a v8 5.9 4x4 gas

 

Not using some kind of circuit protection near the battery for any electrical accessory installation is dumb. That's one nice thing about the kits is that they have all the circuit protection, terminations, relay etc. all thrown in so you don't worry and they aren't really much more money than piecing it all together manually in many cases.

 

I have used similar setups on older GM trucks & it worked, was happy to find this info again. I like that 1 portion of it even shows you how to make the fans kick on when you activate the a/c also. That way, it all acts on it's own, automaticly as a front wheel drive car would, no additional controler needed. The 1 thing I had to get used to, was how the temp climbs above where you want it to go a bit, but then drops down fast after the fan kicked in. I finished mine a few hours ago & love how much more space is in the engine bay without that giant shroud. I used the larger of the 2 fans from a 96 bonneville. The ones from a v6 taurus are even stronger fans if you are looking for cheap performance options, my local scrap yard said they would sell me a taurus fan assembly for $25. These options work as long as you are not a name brand purist. Mine is a bit hobbled together now, but when I can afford some glass to make prettier mounts for it, I will post pics. Oh yes, forget the probe style temp gauge that gets poked into the fan fins of the radiator, those things do not inspire my confidence. I went with the upper hose adapter mentioned in an above post with a $6.99 temp switch from auto zone.

 

Oh hey ugly1, just so you know, I agree about having a fuse in there. I used 1 with a 40 amp fuse made for a hopped up amplifier. I would never run this kind of circuit without protection, and I hope no one else would either!

 

the 2.2 and 2.5 motors in the daytonas k cars etc had a two wire plug in the t stat housing that controled the fans. there a small senser could be a place on the intake that it could be mounted. if you grounded the one wire and hook the other to the relay it should work

 

dude...please?




subscribed for the purpose of being on the to-do list

I'd really like to see your setup, given the extra room for bunk beds no less.

 

Hey guys, not to stir the pot too much, but I got an earful from a local ram enthusiast who said hooking up stuff like this can trash the computer. I did a little research & he may be right. It turns out that the voltage regulator is tied to the main control unit, and if it goes out you have to get another control unit for lots of $$$. I found this item that makes it like gen1 rams with the firewall mounted regulator but it is also adjustable. I have bought & used the alternator rebuild kits & liked them plenty. Look at this link for more.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/chr...tor-parts.aspx

 

Hooking up stuff like what? Please explain

 

Yes, the regulator is in the PCM, only way you are going to screw it up though, is if you have 'too much' electrical draw on the system such that the alternator can't keep up. Of course, you are far more likely to have performance issues, and a dead battery, than smoking the PCM.

Using the external regulator will also have the CEL on constantly, as the computer won't be seeing info from the charging system it expects.