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detailed electric fan conversion info

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  #1  
Old 10-03-2011 | 02:15 AM
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peshewa
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Default detailed electric fan conversion info

I have a 2001 v6 2wd ram 1500, very basic unit. I am going to convert it to the electrical cooling fan & remove the mountainous fan shroud & stock fan. Just so you guys know, I have done this conversion on more than a few trucks in the past. Here is what I want to know. The stock operating temperature for the v6. I need that so I know what switch to buy for it. I dont want to run it extra cool because it makes heating it up in the Iowa winter a long & cold process. I used to have a gen 1 dodge full sized with a 318, that truck had a screw plug in a pre-threaded boss in the intake manifold that worked perfectly to instal a typical fan switch form a front wheel drive GM car - very cheap and easy to find. On this engine, I cant even see the intake manifold. If any of you guys know of a pre-threaded boss on the intake that is under something, please let me know that also. I have not had good luck with the temp switches that get poked in the radiator fins, so the screw in style is where I am aiming. I know there are adapters for the thread in that slightly extend one of the primary hoses, but they are not cheap. I am also going to adapt a large cooling fan & shroud form a 90's bonneville I have laying around. I am trying to do all this on the cheap, but make it reliable & consistant. The bonneville has 2 fans & I will be using the larger of the 2 just so that is clear. I can add another later in the spring. I also have plenty of relays & an extra fan switch, so I think this could cost me next to nothing to complete, but I wont even start the project until I know I can complete it sucsessfully. After I am done, I will post results to share with pics. I already have plans on relocating the resiviors that attach to the stock fan shrouds too just so you know. It helps that I have lots of experience doing glass work in a custom body shop! Thanks for reading folks.
 
  #2  
Old 10-03-2011 | 08:56 AM
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Thermostat for the V6 is the same as the rest of the Magnum engines, should open at 195 or very close, therefore the operating temperature is 195.

If you ever get a tuner, it is recommended to go to a 180 or 185 thermostat to reduce the chance of detonation (pinging).
 
  #3  
Old 10-03-2011 | 01:08 PM
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http://www.steigerperformance.com/ These guys have a tapped adapter that goes inline to the radiator hose. The website wont let me link it directly. It is about $20. For a clean low maintenance install the 20 seemed worth it to me.
 
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Old 10-04-2011 | 12:46 AM
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Hey ugly1, thanks for the heads up - that is definitely the route I am going! And Jasonw, good heads up info too. I will be going very stock on this. The only mods I am doing, are longevity type mods with synthetic oil and a more open in & out air flow. The craziest thing I am doing in the spring, is a 4 link coil over conversion. If any of you guys have links to share info or products for that, I am open to them. Thanks again everyone!
 
  #5  
Old 10-10-2011 | 04:21 AM
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Hey guys, if you are cheap like me or just want to create your own kit without buying it pre-made, I found this super detailed but easy to understand diagram for wiring either 1 or 2 fans and even making them kick in automaticly with the a/c! Here is the link - http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/FanDiagram/
 
  #6  
Old 10-10-2011 | 08:56 AM
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that is kind of cool. i wonder if it actually works and how accurate it is?
 
  #7  
Old 10-10-2011 | 09:46 AM
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So with that do you not need a controller?
 
  #8  
Old 10-10-2011 | 10:05 AM
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In the above diagram, the temp 'sensor', is actually a switch, that comes on at some specific temp, thus, grounding the circuit, and activating the relay. No controller required.
 
  #9  
Old 10-10-2011 | 11:04 AM
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I like that idea, do you think it would be reliable as a controller? Because I was going to buy a dlc controller but I'd like to save $100+
 
  #10  
Old 10-10-2011 | 11:38 AM
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i don't see why it would not be reliable but i would be more worried about what temp it would kick on and off at since the higher the temp the lower the resistance in the sensor.
 



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