Replaced PCM now getting more error codes
#11
I pumped it once but I didn't keep it floored.
I pulled off the IAC to check it as described on this page: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...ol-valve-works
It says to pull it off and leave the wire connected to it. Turn the ignition to the on position. Says the IAC should move in or out if it is working. As far as I can tell, it is not doing anything at all when I do this test.
I'm going to make a few calls in the morning. I may pick up an IAC and try it out. I guess it couldn't hurt. I can return it if it does not help.
If anyone else has input, please chime in. I'm a noob at this stuff but I feel like I have good research skills and can follow directions . Hopefully I get this thing resolved without resorting to a dealer/mechanic.
Thanks!
I pulled off the IAC to check it as described on this page: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how...ol-valve-works
It says to pull it off and leave the wire connected to it. Turn the ignition to the on position. Says the IAC should move in or out if it is working. As far as I can tell, it is not doing anything at all when I do this test.
I'm going to make a few calls in the morning. I may pick up an IAC and try it out. I guess it couldn't hurt. I can return it if it does not help.
If anyone else has input, please chime in. I'm a noob at this stuff but I feel like I have good research skills and can follow directions . Hopefully I get this thing resolved without resorting to a dealer/mechanic.
Thanks!
Yeah, try replacing the IAC, also check the wiring from the IAC as well.
#12
Parts stores are closed tonight but I'm gonna give them a yell in the morning.
I got bored and dusted off my voltage meter. The 4-pronged connector for the IAC doesn't appear to have any voltage when the key is turned on. I checked for continuity and it gives a reading but nothing happens when I check the voltage.
I got bored and dusted off my voltage meter. The 4-pronged connector for the IAC doesn't appear to have any voltage when the key is turned on. I checked for continuity and it gives a reading but nothing happens when I check the voltage.
#13
There should be two wires that are getting 12 volts on there. Reset the pcm (disconnect the battery for a few minutes), and with the IAC motor where you can see it, turn the key to On, and see if the pintle extends. It's possible it will push it right out..... It's better if you can check it while installed, but, that requires a second warm body to turn the key. (less likely to trash the IAC.)
There are service manuals available for download in the FAQ section. Might wanna grab one appropriate for your truck.
There are service manuals available for download in the FAQ section. Might wanna grab one appropriate for your truck.
#14
I have a 2001 Dodge RAM 1500. I've had the PCM code 0601 for a year or so now. Recently, the truck began not starting occasionally. It would turn over but not start. It was never from a cold start. It was always after I had driven down the road a few miles. If I let it sit for 30 mins to a couple hours, it would start and drive like nothing was ever wrong.
So... after taking the truck to a couple mechanics and having them tell me the PCM needed to be replaced, I decided to give http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/ a shot. I ordered my PCM replacement with my VIN/mileage/part #/etc. I unhooked the negative on the battery, popped off the old PCM, popped on the new, and hooked the battery up.
When I tried to start the truck, it would just turn over. I checked the codes again and now I get 4 new codes:
0505 - Idle Air Ctrl Motor Circs
0117 - ECT Sens Voltage Too Low
0112 - Intake Air Temp Sens Voltage Low
1282 - Accelerator Pedal Pos Sens2 Low Voltage
Does this sound like I got a bad PCM or did the new PCM just reveal more problems?
Thanks!
So... after taking the truck to a couple mechanics and having them tell me the PCM needed to be replaced, I decided to give http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/ a shot. I ordered my PCM replacement with my VIN/mileage/part #/etc. I unhooked the negative on the battery, popped off the old PCM, popped on the new, and hooked the battery up.
When I tried to start the truck, it would just turn over. I checked the codes again and now I get 4 new codes:
0505 - Idle Air Ctrl Motor Circs
0117 - ECT Sens Voltage Too Low
0112 - Intake Air Temp Sens Voltage Low
1282 - Accelerator Pedal Pos Sens2 Low Voltage
Does this sound like I got a bad PCM or did the new PCM just reveal more problems?
Thanks!
As mentioned earlier in the thread, simply holding the gas pedal down will get around a faulty IAC motor to get the truck started... just may not idle that well haha.
Also p0601 is the internal fault code (I had it), so it will not be able to sense other codes. It is possible you really had other codes, but it wasn't attempting to detect them.
I've posted here before about my experience with autocomputerexchange.com, and it certainly was not a good one. There is no customer service... if/when you call them back, ask for a manager for fun. you'll get passed around, or the same person will pick back up and say there are none available. I said i'd hold lol, and they put me on hold for a few minutes. Same lady picks up and ask me what my problem is. I asked is she the manager and again... you never actually get one. "Why do you need a manager?" My first pcm from them was DOA, my second one gave the same p0601 code I had to start with. The holiday weekend was coming up, so I paid more to have the second one overnighted, and it did not arrive the next business day. It wasn't until I opened a case with ebay did I actually got a response from "the boss". I did get my refund, but I did not get the extra $ for the overnight service I never received. I should have challenged it, but I chalked it up as a learning experience. Check kbb.com for auto computer exchange too btw, it is interesting. Price point attracted me to them, but just remember... you get what you pay for.
All in all, you probably got a bad pcm as much as I would hate to say it. If it primes with the old comp (possibly that sound you heard), try holding the pedal down to see if the truck will start (to rule out IAC).
#15
Thanks for the response!
The only consistent codes I get now are the 0505 with the new PCM and 0601 with the old PCM. The IAC doesn't work at all with the new PCM. I understand now that shouldn't cause the engine to not start; it just won't stay idle without giving gas.
This morning I put my old PCM back in (again) and it started up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm sure it will still occasionally not start on me like it has been doing for the past few months but at least I can drive to work and drive home.
I'll be sending this new PCM back today. Do you think I should just ask for a refund and try another vendor or see if they send me a good one next time? Also, where did you end up getting your replacement?
The only consistent codes I get now are the 0505 with the new PCM and 0601 with the old PCM. The IAC doesn't work at all with the new PCM. I understand now that shouldn't cause the engine to not start; it just won't stay idle without giving gas.
This morning I put my old PCM back in (again) and it started up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm sure it will still occasionally not start on me like it has been doing for the past few months but at least I can drive to work and drive home.
I'll be sending this new PCM back today. Do you think I should just ask for a refund and try another vendor or see if they send me a good one next time? Also, where did you end up getting your replacement?
#16
Thanks for the response!
The only consistent codes I get now are the 0505 with the new PCM and 0601 with the old PCM. The IAC doesn't work at all with the new PCM. I understand now that shouldn't cause the engine to not start; it just won't stay idle without giving gas.
This morning I put my old PCM back in (again) and it started up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm sure it will still occasionally not start on me like it has been doing for the past few months but at least I can drive to work and drive home.
I'll be sending this new PCM back today. Do you think I should just ask for a refund and try another vendor or see if they send me a good one next time? Also, where did you end up getting your replacement?
The only consistent codes I get now are the 0505 with the new PCM and 0601 with the old PCM. The IAC doesn't work at all with the new PCM. I understand now that shouldn't cause the engine to not start; it just won't stay idle without giving gas.
This morning I put my old PCM back in (again) and it started up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm sure it will still occasionally not start on me like it has been doing for the past few months but at least I can drive to work and drive home.
I'll be sending this new PCM back today. Do you think I should just ask for a refund and try another vendor or see if they send me a good one next time? Also, where did you end up getting your replacement?
Last edited by pcfixerpro; 10-18-2011 at 09:08 PM.
#17
I called ACE yesterday. The guy sounded reasonable and said he'd send me another right away. Later in the day, I got a 2nd Day air confirmation from UPS. We'll see if this one actually works. If not, I'm going to fight for a refund. From what I can tell by reading reviews of ACE, it's not easy getting a refund from them.
Thanks for the heads up on some other options. My number on the old PCM is 56028550AB. I found one on the rockauto site but it's near $400. That's still half the price of the dealer and rockauto actually has a BBB rating so I might give them a shot if the next PCM doesn't work.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the heads up on some other options. My number on the old PCM is 56028550AB. I found one on the rockauto site but it's near $400. That's still half the price of the dealer and rockauto actually has a BBB rating so I might give them a shot if the next PCM doesn't work.
Thanks again!
#18
I called ACE yesterday. The guy sounded reasonable and said he'd send me another right away. Later in the day, I got a 2nd Day air confirmation from UPS. We'll see if this one actually works. If not, I'm going to fight for a refund. From what I can tell by reading reviews of ACE, it's not easy getting a refund from them.
Thanks for the heads up on some other options. My number on the old PCM is 56028550AB. I found one on the rockauto site but it's near $400. That's still half the price of the dealer and rockauto actually has a BBB rating so I might give them a shot if the next PCM doesn't work.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the heads up on some other options. My number on the old PCM is 56028550AB. I found one on the rockauto site but it's near $400. That's still half the price of the dealer and rockauto actually has a BBB rating so I might give them a shot if the next PCM doesn't work.
Thanks again!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-79-8550V/
Good luck!
#19
UPDATE!
I'm furious with these people. After the second computer did not work, I called them and the guy was very nice and asked me to return the 2 bad computers with a note stating that I wanted a refund. I sent the 2 back and waited for a fund/call/email/something.
I didn't hear anything back from them so I called today. I talked to one guy who told me I could only get an in-store credit but I could not get a cash refund. So I asked to speak to someone to dispute the matter. He puts me on hold and a "different" guy answers the phone (it's really the same guy trying to use a different accent; later in the conversation he turned back to his old accent...). After speaking with this guy, he informs me that the reason I can't get the cash refund is because my truck "blew up" the computers they sent (keep in mind my original computer still works; it just has the 0601 code). So finally I give in and I ask how can I use the in-store credit to get a 3rd computer to see if it will work. He then tells me, "oh wait, I see that you cannot get in-store credit now". So then I ask him to return the computer that I bought since I'm paying for it anyways but he says he can't.
In the middle of all this he tells me that I'm scamming him by burning up his computers and I should be thankful that they aren't charging me a core fee since I didn't return my original computer with the new ones that didn't work....
What a load of crap!
I'm furious with these people. After the second computer did not work, I called them and the guy was very nice and asked me to return the 2 bad computers with a note stating that I wanted a refund. I sent the 2 back and waited for a fund/call/email/something.
I didn't hear anything back from them so I called today. I talked to one guy who told me I could only get an in-store credit but I could not get a cash refund. So I asked to speak to someone to dispute the matter. He puts me on hold and a "different" guy answers the phone (it's really the same guy trying to use a different accent; later in the conversation he turned back to his old accent...). After speaking with this guy, he informs me that the reason I can't get the cash refund is because my truck "blew up" the computers they sent (keep in mind my original computer still works; it just has the 0601 code). So finally I give in and I ask how can I use the in-store credit to get a 3rd computer to see if it will work. He then tells me, "oh wait, I see that you cannot get in-store credit now". So then I ask him to return the computer that I bought since I'm paying for it anyways but he says he can't.
In the middle of all this he tells me that I'm scamming him by burning up his computers and I should be thankful that they aren't charging me a core fee since I didn't return my original computer with the new ones that didn't work....
What a load of crap!
#20