So, for the last few weeks, I've been building and testing a homebuilt water methanol injection system for my pickup. Obviously, its mainly for boosted applications, but can have positive effects on a naturally aspirated engine. So you may ask...why?

Because I can.

So what's the point? What does it do?
It does a number of things. It allows the engine to utilize special components to their maximum potential while safely suppressing predetonation. Hence, why it helps boosted applications. They can run more boost, and advanced timing, without burning up their engine. But what about us naturally aspirated guys? It will allow us to advance timing and fuel curves beyond that of which is a "safe" setting, without pinging.

How does it work?
Lower air charge temperatures by 30-40 degree's
Reduces cylinder temperatures by 200+ degrees
Increase your 87-93 pump gas by 10-15+ points
Allows the use of lower grades fuels
Allows you to safely run more timing
Cools and protects the tops of your pistons
Longer more stable combustion expansion and progression Removes carbon build up from combustion chambers, pistons and valves
Reduces & helps eliminate damaging engine detonation & pre-ignition
No need for expensive racing fuel or additives

How is it set up on my engine?
So far, its manually operated. I tapped the bottom of my washer fluid reservoir and ran a line to a pump. From there, it follows the engine bay sides to a small nozzle, which is tapped into my intake hat. There is an inline solenoid, that keeps fluid from being "sucked" in until the system is activated. There will also be a vacuum switch (last part I need) that will activate the system at a specific setting, and shut it off when that setting is altered. There is also an inline On/Off switch that can completely shut the system down and disable it from activating at all. At the moment, its activated by a switch only.

These systems to buy, are upwards of $500-$600. To build your own, your only talking around $150-$200, AND its the way you want it, remote, so you can mix and match to your needs, and very reliable.

So, why am I bringing it up here?
I want y'alls opinion on the subject. Nothing tacky, but useful comments. I plan on finishing the system, buying the SCT, and getting a custom tune to accommodate the new mod, and attempt to dyno the results if money allows. If I get positive feedback on this, I will create one hell of a DIY once complete. So give me your input, give me your advice, give me your ideas. Anything and everything!

Ill post pictures when I can get some good ones.

 

Interesting. Have you dyno'd engine before so you can see difference afterwards?

 

No I haven't. But the system can be turned off so when the time comes, I can dyno with it off, then dyno with it on. It wont do much on its own. It allows timing and fuel sync changes. That's when you'll notice power improvements

 

Problem:

1. How are you going to address running more advanced timing when the system is OFF. That is your biggest problem. You can't program your PCM to change when this system is turned off. You can't have a 93 octane tune and run 87 octane gas (because that is what the rating will be when the system is turned off).

Kind of like why hemifever cannot tune our trucks for FLEX FUEL (He has been trying). It has to be either E85 or Gas....there is no mixing E-85 and gas in the tank and having this run correctly.

 

He could shove the sct in the glovebox and swap tunes often.. it would be tricky, but possible.. so long as he runs high test all the time.. right or wrong?

 

As in, turning the system off completely, or when the vacuum switch shuts it off? When the system is turned off, I program my SCT to a different setting that runs without the WM injection system. Now, if your talking about cam timing, that's a different story, and im looking for answers for that. Im designing the system to operate under load or WOT. So only a few degrees advanced shouldn't cause any problems under normal driving until (and this is what the testing is for) the system is activated at a preset time, right before spark knock. Feel free to correct me if im wrong lol

 

It would be nice if we could find a way to incorporate a knock sensor into the existing system.........

 

I have an incredibly stupid and impractical question... What would be the benefit, if any, of running two totally independent pcm's? Not at the same time, but one that remains, uh, dormant? Until you wanted to run the other one.. throw a toggle, and select the tune you want depending on your need..

You could address fuel sync with such a rig too, no? Does the dizzy have to be spun to set it? Or could a totally separate pcm store such a thing, and flip back and forth between them?? I don't know.. I'm asking.. it seems unrealistic and unlikely, but it's worth asking.

 

Sorry I can't edit my post above from this phone, but one obvious issue with doing such a thing would be odometer memory and such.. there would be other issues too, but minor, right?

 

YES that would be awesome. Worth looking into...