You might try heating the nut if the line isn't rusted real bad. Badly rusted lines tend to blow off if they are heated too much.
As the nut cools spray some penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) around the where tube goes into the nut and work everything slowly with a flare nut wrench.
Sometimes it works, occasionally it doesn't but I'll ty it before having to jack with an entire brake line.

 

On the really rusty ones, I just resign myself to my fate, cut the brake line out, and simply replace it from the getgo. Saves me the time and frustration of trying to extract it in one piece. (which I usually fail miserably at......)

 

+1..... The Dodge lines are bad enough quality. Never mind try to save them.

 

Well, I did get the cylinders on, everything replaced and put on. The problem is, I can't get the drum back on. Everything is together like it was in the pics I took before taking them apart. The drum won't clear the shoes. Is there any way to make everything tighter, or what would be my best bet?

 

sounds like you have the adjuster at the bottom wound out too far. if you replaced your brake shoes you need to wind it in.

 

Measure inside of drum. Measure ouside of shoe diameter. Turn adjuster in to allow just enough clearance to allow for drum to slip on with about 1/8" clearance or so.

 

This morning, I went out and finished the brakes, got the drums on with no problems. The "brake" and "abs" lights are on, and the pedal goes to floor, very spongy. I guess the fluid needs to be bled again. Hopefully there isn't air in the system, but from my searches on here, that would seem to be the case.

 

Yeah, bleeding the rears can be an exercise. There is a LOT of brake line that likes to hold air.....

 

This is the process I'm going to use: loosen bleeder screw (that is the one on the back of the cylinder, sticking out the back of the rear brakes, correct?), friend presses brake pedal, then tighten bleeder screw. Repeat until clean fluid starts coming out, while keeping master cylinder filled with clean fluid. Does that sound right?

Also, would air in the lines cause the brake and abs lights to come on?

 

If you think you still have a bunch of air in the system, try this:

Make sure M/C is filled....
Crack open the passenger rear bleeder (and yes, you are correct on where it is), if it is a new w/c, might want to put some teflon tape on the threads..... with the bleeder open, stick your finger over the end, and have your friend pump the brakes. (do not close it between pumps.) Careful with the finger, you can direct the fluid that IS going to spray out..... (yes, it's messy.....) Have your friend pump the pedal several times, close the valve, check fluid level. Do that a couple times, or, until you get a good flow of CLEAN fluid, and no air. Then, close the valve, have friend pump the pedal three times, and HOLD it down. Crack open the bleeder, until the pedal hits the floor, close the bleeder. (this will "shock" any stuck air bubbles out of the lines.)

For the drivers side, all your are bleeding is the short line from there the soft line hits the axle, to the w/c. So, just bleed normally. (unless you replaced that one also, and think there might be a fair amount of air in it.)

When you are done in back, see how the brakes feel. If the lites won't go off after pumping the brakes a few times with the engine running, crack open one of the FRONT brakes, and step on the pedal. (this re-centers the switch in the proportioning valve, that is what turns on the brake lite in the first place.) Try pumping the pedal a few more times, and see if the lights go off. (should only have to do this once, maybe twice, to get the lights off.)

Air in the lines will most certainly cause the lights to come on.