Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT
#11
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The torch can be your friend sometimes. I had to replace my idler arm and we were using a pickle fork to get it out, the dang thing wouldn't pop out. Applied a little heat with a small torch and it popped right out. However I did get bashed for using a torch on steering/suspension components.
I have been known to wield a mean fire ax. But for heating parts to break free, a small propane tank like VW posted is not loikely to cause damage to anything other than sheet metal. But any steel that has been tempered would lose it's temper even with a propane torch. The only other problem is being in the wrong place at the wrong time.... :0 (glad you got your truck fixed up and back to you!)
#14
#15
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#18
#19
#20
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Don't forget the fire wrench!
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/ul1001297297967.jpg)
Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/ul1001297297967.jpg)
Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.
I got me one of them thingyzzz!!! <-- real word, I'm being cereal
Question about the 1-ton cylinders. Is it a direct swap in? One of mine is starting to leak and so I've got to replace mine. Your comment perked up my nukles.