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Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by stewie01
The torch can be your friend sometimes. I had to replace my idler arm and we were using a pickle fork to get it out, the dang thing wouldn't pop out. Applied a little heat with a small torch and it popped right out. However I did get bashed for using a torch on steering/suspension components.

I have been known to wield a mean fire ax. But for heating parts to break free, a small propane tank like VW posted is not loikely to cause damage to anything other than sheet metal. But any steel that has been tempered would lose it's temper even with a propane torch. The only other problem is being in the wrong place at the wrong time.... :0 (glad you got your truck fixed up and back to you!)
 
  #12  
Old 11-19-2011, 09:29 PM
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50 /50 mixture of acetone and power steering fluid better in spray bottle better than pb blaster of anything else. Big *** hammer and heat.
 
  #13  
Old 11-20-2011, 04:51 PM
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DDSS!!!


Now, I'll have to replace the spring wrapped brake line from the cylinders to the distro block. anyone have a solution for that?
 
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Flue
DDSS!!!


Now, I'll have to replace the spring wrapped brake line from the cylinders to the distro block. anyone have a solution for that?

Hopefully local auto parts will have it. Otherwise stealership and WAY too high a price...
 
  #15  
Old 11-20-2011, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Hopefully local auto parts will have it. Otherwise stealership and WAY too high a price...
I think this stuff is what I'm looking for....seems WAY cheap from what I've read in other forums....but I'll not b!tch.
 
  #16  
Old 11-20-2011, 07:05 PM
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Don't take a shortuct. Use a tubing bender and not something makeshift. Kinking a line can create an unsafe brake system.
 
  #17  
Old 11-20-2011, 07:25 PM
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Ok, here's a question... Is the spring wrap (rock guard, salt keeper) needed for that section of the brake line?
 
  #18  
Old 11-20-2011, 08:39 PM
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If it was there originally, I would replace it with the same thing.

Don't know what that is really for, never really gave it much thought. Maybe vibration dampening, shock relief, or protection from rocks or something. Maybe someone else will know.....
 
  #19  
Old 11-20-2011, 08:45 PM
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i don't think it will make much difference. it is steel and it will rust eventually unless you get stainless steel brake lines but that would be about another $100 more than normal brake lines and i don't know if a normal flaring tool could flare it or not.
 
  #20  
Old 11-21-2011, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by VWandDodge
Don't forget the fire wrench!




Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.

I got me one of them thingyzzz!!! <-- real word, I'm being cereal

Question about the 1-ton cylinders. Is it a direct swap in? One of mine is starting to leak and so I've got to replace mine. Your comment perked up my nukles.
 


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