Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
The torch can be your friend sometimes. I had to replace my idler arm and we were using a pickle fork to get it out, the dang thing wouldn't pop out. Applied a little heat with a small torch and it popped right out. However I did get bashed for using a torch on steering/suspension components.
I have been known to wield a mean fire ax. But for heating parts to break free, a small propane tank like VW posted is not loikely to cause damage to anything other than sheet metal. But any steel that has been tempered would lose it's temper even with a propane torch. The only other problem is being in the wrong place at the wrong time.... :0 (glad you got your truck fixed up and back to you!)
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Hopefully local auto parts will have it. Otherwise stealership and WAY too high a price...
Thread Starter
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Veteran
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
If it was there originally, I would replace it with the same thing.
Don't know what that is really for, never really gave it much thought. Maybe vibration dampening, shock relief, or protection from rocks or something. Maybe someone else will know.....
Don't know what that is really for, never really gave it much thought. Maybe vibration dampening, shock relief, or protection from rocks or something. Maybe someone else will know.....
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
i don't think it will make much difference. it is steel and it will rust eventually unless you get stainless steel brake lines but that would be about another $100 more than normal brake lines and i don't know if a normal flaring tool could flare it or not.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Don't forget the fire wrench!
Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.
Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.
I got me one of them thingyzzz!!! <-- real word, I'm being cereal
Question about the 1-ton cylinders. Is it a direct swap in? One of mine is starting to leak and so I've got to replace mine. Your comment perked up my nukles.