Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT
#22
Is that a real word?
So, looks like this b!tch is going to get a complete Rear brake overhaul.
Looking at drums, hardware, pads, cylinders and 2 self adjusting brake repair kits. Anti-seize all around. Coat of rust-oleum on Thursday since it'll be warmish out. Missing anything?
Hit the driver side with a heavy wire wheel, looks better...but still quite a bit of rust where I can't reach. Softer wire brush can reach, but doesn't do chit.
Any formula for removing rust...I've already got the elbow grease one memorized.
So, looks like this b!tch is going to get a complete Rear brake overhaul.
Looking at drums, hardware, pads, cylinders and 2 self adjusting brake repair kits. Anti-seize all around. Coat of rust-oleum on Thursday since it'll be warmish out. Missing anything?
Hit the driver side with a heavy wire wheel, looks better...but still quite a bit of rust where I can't reach. Softer wire brush can reach, but doesn't do chit.
Any formula for removing rust...I've already got the elbow grease one memorized.
#23
Yes, Search is a real word.
So, looks like this b!tch is going to get a complete Rear brake overhaul.
Looking at drums, hardware, pads, cylinders and 2 self adjusting brake repair kits. Anti-seize all around. Coat of rust-oleum on Thursday since it'll be warmish out. Missing anything?
Hit the driver side with a heavy wire wheel, looks better...but still quite a bit of rust where I can't reach. Softer wire brush can reach, but doesn't do chit.
Any formula for removing rust...I've already got the elbow grease one memorized.
Good deal. If you're going to do it, do it right and do it once. I take it you have all new springs and other parts? If not, DO IT. Take your drums, backing plates, and all other associated brake components that are to be reused and have them sand blasted or media blasted. I would then advise you use either Rustoleum or Hammerite paint on everything (including the face of the drum. When reassembling everything, any fastener that has threads should be lightly coated with Anti-seize. Don't gob it on, and that includes the threads for the brakeline to the wheel cylinder. Use cause so as not to contaminate the tip of the connector and thereby contaminating the brake fluid.
Also, when you're done with this I would also advise that you completely flush the brake system. Again -- do it right. Preventative maintenance is the key.
So, looks like this b!tch is going to get a complete Rear brake overhaul.
Looking at drums, hardware, pads, cylinders and 2 self adjusting brake repair kits. Anti-seize all around. Coat of rust-oleum on Thursday since it'll be warmish out. Missing anything?
Hit the driver side with a heavy wire wheel, looks better...but still quite a bit of rust where I can't reach. Softer wire brush can reach, but doesn't do chit.
Any formula for removing rust...I've already got the elbow grease one memorized.
Also, when you're done with this I would also advise that you completely flush the brake system. Again -- do it right. Preventative maintenance is the key.
#28
I will call BS on that statement. I've been running them for 5 years and never a lick of trouble *AND* I never adjust them at oil change intervals. The secret to getting the adjusters to properly function is to every once in a while drive the vehicle in reverse for 20 yards or so and then SLAM on the brakes. Repeat this procedure two or three times. There -- they're adjusted.
#29
Thanks for the link though big guy. At the end, someone posted about doing Dodge 1-tons. How come you chose the WCs?
I will call BS on that statement. I've been running them for 5 years and never a lick of trouble *AND* I never adjust them at oil change intervals. The secret to getting the adjusters to properly function is to every once in a while drive the vehicle in reverse for 20 yards or so and then SLAM on the brakes. Repeat this procedure two or three times. There -- they're adjusted.
#30
I will call BS on that statement. I've been running them for 5 years and never a lick of trouble *AND* I never adjust them at oil change intervals. The secret to getting the adjusters to properly function is to every once in a while drive the vehicle in reverse for 20 yards or so and then SLAM on the brakes. Repeat this procedure two or three times. There -- they're adjusted.
Which nobody ever does.