Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT
#1
Brake Drums-Rusted TIGHT
Does anyone know if the "throw it on stands, give er some gas in reverse and stomp the brakes" will work with the E-brake since I don't have brakes?
Blew the driver side brake line on the first damn day of snow...1 minute after getting the Wife's crapstar out of the trany shop.
Repaced a 7' section, but then busted the bleeder valve on the passenger side (after soaking with PB for 2 days).
It's not a DD, but will be nice to have once the snow starts flying up here.
thanks.
Blew the driver side brake line on the first damn day of snow...1 minute after getting the Wife's crapstar out of the trany shop.
Repaced a 7' section, but then busted the bleeder valve on the passenger side (after soaking with PB for 2 days).
It's not a DD, but will be nice to have once the snow starts flying up here.
thanks.
#4
It's a parking brake, not an "e-brake". That slang term is a misnomer since the function is to apply pressure to prevent a vehicle from rolling from a dead stop.
Anyway, jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel and if possible back the adjusting stars all the way down to retract the shoes. Then, proceed to whacking the stuck drum with a BFH. Rotate, whack, repeat. Heating the inner lip around the hub of the drum may help break the bond. When installing the drum it would be a good idea to coat the hub with Anti-seize to ensure easier removal in the future.
Anyway, jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel and if possible back the adjusting stars all the way down to retract the shoes. Then, proceed to whacking the stuck drum with a BFH. Rotate, whack, repeat. Heating the inner lip around the hub of the drum may help break the bond. When installing the drum it would be a good idea to coat the hub with Anti-seize to ensure easier removal in the future.
#6
Don't forget the fire wrench!
Once you get everything apart, I suggest cleaning all fasteners with on a grinding wheel and then apply Anti-seize to all threads before reassembly as well. Since you're probably going to replace the wheel cylinders (now is a great time to upgrade to the 1-ton cylinders), use a toothpick to appy Anti-seize to the threads of both the bleeder valve and the brakeline. That way, future maintenance is a breeze.
#7
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#8
Well, that wasn't too bad. Little tiny bit of heat, hammer and a few nice whacks and each side popped off. Even after 167k in the WI salt mines..I mean roadways.
Tell me my Rear end is not FUBAR! If you spin one side, should you be able to hear the gears? hmmn...how do you spell gear click? bll,bll,bll,bll,bll,bll (roll your r's for similar sound??? LOL)
Tell me my Rear end is not FUBAR! If you spin one side, should you be able to hear the gears? hmmn...how do you spell gear click? bll,bll,bll,bll,bll,bll (roll your r's for similar sound??? LOL)
#9
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
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The torch can be your friend sometimes. I had to replace my idler arm and we were using a pickle fork to get it out, the dang thing wouldn't pop out. Applied a little heat with a small torch and it popped right out. However I did get bashed for using a torch on steering/suspension components.