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where is this Mess coming from: Coolant Leak.

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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #21  
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GDstock... Thanks for that usefull information on timing chain. Thats a good idea i will mark the cam and crank shaft so i can turn them back to where they were IF they move. Im pretty confident in this work i have tons of info and guidlines to fallow i got a pulley puller and lock tight from work (we make Electrical Coils) ive watched numerouse videos and i have sticky labels from work to label parts and another good word to fallow is putting bolts back in so i know i have all the right bolts in the right spots. I have a torque wrench as well. I called car quest and napa and im getting a kit for the timing chain that is a double roller with both sprockets, also getting new gaskets, new thermostat (going with a 180 degree) and new water pump and new hoses and clamps also going to do my oil change... IS THERE ANYTHING IM MISSING?????
what exactly is the bypass hose? someone told me to get one...
Thanks again guys cant wait till friday morning
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue83
IS THERE ANYTHING IM MISSING?????
Antifreeze? RTV?

Originally Posted by BigBlue83
what exactly is the bypass hose?
It's a hose, maybe five inches long, that runs from the water pump to the intake manifold and hides up under your AC compressor.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #23  
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Haha oh yea anti freeze lol. RTV i have black gasket silicone and loctite thread locker. Im so excited about digging into this i forgot why i was doing it in the first place no coolant in my truck.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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I would use red rtv, not black. need higher temp rating.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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ok so i will pick one up. are there any torque specs to worry about?if so which ones? if noby knows what the exact specs are thats ok i have the 2k page manual but if some one knows pacific bolts that need torque specs it will help in the search of getting the specs. Some time before im going to gather all my info and write it all out in a little booklet so i can make sure to dot my i and cross my t... im sure every thing wont go 100 percent smooth but ill be ready.. heading to the bank than the auto shop for parts now......
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue83
ok so i will pick one up. are there any torque specs to worry about?if so which ones? if noby knows what the exact specs are thats ok i have the 2k page manual but if some one knows pacific bolts that need torque specs it will help in the search of getting the specs. Some time before im going to gather all my info and write it all out in a little booklet so i can make sure to dot my i and cross my t... im sure every thing wont go 100 percent smooth but ill be ready.. heading to the bank than the auto shop for parts now......
All the bolts have torque specs. Read through the manual and write down the specs. This way when you are putting it back together you can look on the list you wrote, instead of constantly looking back through the manual.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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+1 ^ Easiest way to do it. Not that many different bolts to keep tract of.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I would use red rtv, not black. need higher temp rating.

Um correct me if im wrong but the black/grey stuff is good up to 450f isnt it ? I dont think anything even remotly gets that hot on the engine except MAYBE the exhaust manifold and cat convertor..

As for the timing cover and waterpump, i had to do all that crap a few months ago. I gatta admit i was pretty scared about doing it but i luckily had a mechanic friend help me and after doing it once with him it is really easy. He moved and my waterpump was leaking a month later so i had to do it all over again cept bymyself. Took me like 5 hours to do but i did it, cept this time i used Permatex right stuff on both sides of the paper felpro gasket to make sure it doesnt leak again.

Torque specs for the timing cover and water pump are 30ft lbs. But you really dont need to torque these if you dont have a torque wrench. I just used judgement and tightend them by hand (meaning with a normal socket wrench) and have had no issues. We used a torque wrench when my friend helped me tho, but since he moved i didnt have one the 2nd time so i did it by hand. Just dont make it gorilla tight.. its really easy to overtorque something.

As for the timing chain, what i did was align the circles on the gears together by turning the crankshaft with a big bolt. Then i went down under and wedged the flexplate of the transmission to hold it in place. Then pulled the chain and gears off and put the new one on with the circles lined up like the other 2.

One thing i need to say tho is make sure you bring cups and label them for which bolts are which... There are a ton of bolts all different lengths, and make sure you put the right length bolt in the right hole on the timing cover/waterpump, you dont want to tighten it and find you broke a hole through something

Here are few pics i snapped when me and my friend did this.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0172-1.jpg

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0171-1.jpg

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0177-1.jpg

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0178.jpg

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0173.jpg

Heres the culprit of my coolant leak on the timing cover

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0176-1-1.jpg
 

Last edited by candymancan; Nov 23, 2011 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by candymancan
Um correct me if im wrong but the black/grey stuff is good up to 450f isnt it ? I dont think anything even remotly gets that hot on the engine except MAYBE the exhaust manifold and cat convertor..

As for the timing chain, what i did was align the circles on the gears together by turning the crankshaft with a big bolt. Then i went down under and wedged the flexplate of the transmission to hold it in place. Then pulled the chain and gears off and put the new one on with the circles lined up like the other 2.

Black and clear are typically not high temp, but some manufacturers may indeed make a high temp in black. I would just make sure it said high temp on package.

the crank is not likely to rotate during this process. The cam will be easier to move or misalign. I don't know of a good way to lock it into place, other than use caution while working on it.

And that is an ugly looking leaky gasket!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #30  
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Well my friend who is a 12 year retired mechanic is the one who took the old timing chain off and put the new one on. I was under the Jeep when he did it. But i have faith that he did it right.. Altho he said his biggest worry before we started it was the timing. Mine was it leaking again, altho at the time i didnt relise what he ment until after when i learned more lol. He didnt want to take the chain off like we did. He wanted to do it some other way i forgot, but he wanted to actually reset the timing on it to make sure we dont **** it up

How would you reset the timing anyway ? I bet you have to take it all apart right ?

Yea the gasket wasnt leaking when i bought it but when i replaced the radiator cap because of a what the hell moment when i noticed i didnt have to push it down to twist it. The new pressure in the system caused it to start leaking outa the timing cover, the thermostat gasket, the upper rad hose, the water pump, and the drain petcock on the rad.. lol


Pics of the leak this is under the engine looking up along the side of the timing cover.


http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...2/HPIM1981.jpg

This is where i found the leak coming from, the powersteering pump on the right. After it was all apart it turned out thats exactly where it was, the gasket in the picture is right there. Of course i didnt know jack about this i posted these 2 pics on here and everyone told me the timing cover gasket.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...2/55555555.jpg
 

Last edited by candymancan; Nov 23, 2011 at 08:36 PM.
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