The Good: Got a 2001 Ram Sport 4x4. The Bad: Engine Light came on
#11
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Did the Dodge trick with the key, pulled code P0455
EVAP SYSTEM!?!? Noooooooo! Same problem I had on my Dodge Neon.
Found this thread here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-leak-fix.html
So I don't know what to start with.
The truck has a couple of other problems:
-Headlamps only work with brights engaged. Disconnected the bright bulbs so that I can run the regular bulbs at night.
-Heat blows hot. Cool blows cold. Nothing works inbetween. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on hot, then it blows full hot. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on cool, then it blows cool.
The truck is beautiful and in great shape otherwise (excepted for a cracked tail light but that is an EASY fix).
If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this stuff let me know.
Thanks.
EVAP SYSTEM!?!? Noooooooo! Same problem I had on my Dodge Neon.
Found this thread here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-leak-fix.html
So I don't know what to start with.
The truck has a couple of other problems:
-Headlamps only work with brights engaged. Disconnected the bright bulbs so that I can run the regular bulbs at night.
-Heat blows hot. Cool blows cold. Nothing works inbetween. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on hot, then it blows full hot. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on cool, then it blows cool.
The truck is beautiful and in great shape otherwise (excepted for a cracked tail light but that is an EASY fix).
If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this stuff let me know.
Thanks.
-Headlamps: Fixed this with a new multifunction switch. Easy fix, cost about $75 ($60 for switch, and $15 for the security torx bits and drivers).
-Hot & cold adjustment fixed with the heater-treater metal interposer for the blend door actuator! Great instructions included with this kit, and I was happy to see the plastic one was broken, therefore I knew this fix would work. Also, make sure if you do this fix that you cut away a wide enough area of the padding under the upholstery. Otherwise you will never get the rear screw restarted once you've replaced the interposer and made sure the gearing inside the motor box was right. Moderately difficult fix due to the position of the actuator, cost $35 ($25+ $10 shipping for heatertreater metal interposer, you may have to buy an angled phillips to remove the rear screw).
-License plate lighting: Mine aren't working. Ordered LED replacement bulbs for < $10 off ebay. Will report on fix once done.
-driverside window: Goes down fine, however you have to manually stop the motor if you use the auto-down. Also, going up has issues. It eventually goes all the way up, but it needs helps, and is jerky. Not sure of the problem here,
though I dread opening up the door. This is the last problem the truck has though so fixing it will take the truck to perfect working order in all aspects.
-I bought aftermarket taillights so that was the first fix I made.
Last edited by LoneWolfArcher; 07-30-2012 at 09:38 AM.
#12
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-driverside window: Goes down fine, however you have to manually stop the motor if you use the auto-down. Also, going up has issues. It eventually goes all the way up, but it needs helps, and is jerky. Not sure of the problem here,
though I dread opening up the door. This is the last problem the truck has though so fixing it will take the truck to perfect working order in all aspects.
![](http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/VWandDodge/CrownVic/IMAG0081.jpg)
![](http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/VWandDodge/CrownVic/IMAG0083.jpg)
The nylon plugs are to the right of the housing in this picture. They fill the areas of each point in the triangle of the gear, after which the alloy gear is inserted before the cover is replaced.
Last edited by Gary-L; 07-30-2012 at 10:46 AM.
#13
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I'm betting the issue with the windows is a $15 repair. The driver's window would lower but not raise on my Crown Vic. Turns out the small nylon plugs in the motor/gear assy disintegrated. Ordered the Doorman repair kit and opted for Lithium grease. Works like a champ.
The nylon plugs are to the right of the housing in this picture. They fill the areas of each point in the triangle of the gear, after which the alloy gear is inserted before the cover is replaced.
The nylon plugs are to the right of the housing in this picture. They fill the areas of each point in the triangle of the gear, after which the alloy gear is inserted before the cover is replaced.
#14
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Seriously? Pulling the door panels is cake. Granted, the plugs have to be replaced, but other than that it's no big deal.
Now I'm just WAG'ing (Wild Arsed Guessing) that this is the problem. Either way, the window motor mechanism has to be removed to learn the whole story.
Once you do, please post pics. I'm curious what the Dodge setup looks like.
#15
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Seriously? Pulling the door panels is cake. Granted, the plugs have to be replaced, but other than that it's no big deal.
Now I'm just WAG'ing (Wild Arsed Guessing) that this is the problem. Either way, the window motor mechanism has to be removed to learn the whole story.
Once you do, please post pics. I'm curious what the Dodge setup looks like.
Now I'm just WAG'ing (Wild Arsed Guessing) that this is the problem. Either way, the window motor mechanism has to be removed to learn the whole story.
Once you do, please post pics. I'm curious what the Dodge setup looks like.
#16
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#18
#19
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#20
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License plate lights working now.
I bought these off ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6000K-Xenon-...ht_5624wt_1393
Then got these at O'Reilly's:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1901&ppt=C0243
One small problem, the connectors for the sockets were different than on my truck. So I had to cut and splice the old ones on. Made sure I had the correct polarity with the lights and bam, I now have license plate lights!
Those bulbs aren't as bright as the stock ones but they work and being LED the sockets should last a lot longer.
I bought these off ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6000K-Xenon-...ht_5624wt_1393
Then got these at O'Reilly's:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1901&ppt=C0243
One small problem, the connectors for the sockets were different than on my truck. So I had to cut and splice the old ones on. Made sure I had the correct polarity with the lights and bam, I now have license plate lights!
Those bulbs aren't as bright as the stock ones but they work and being LED the sockets should last a lot longer.