Did the Dodge trick with the key, pulled code P0455

EVAP SYSTEM!?!? Noooooooo! Same problem I had on my Dodge Neon.

Found this thread here:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-leak-fix.html

So I don't know what to start with.

The truck has a couple of other problems:

-Headlamps only work with brights engaged. Disconnected the bright bulbs so that I can run the regular bulbs at night.

-Heat blows hot. Cool blows cold. Nothing works inbetween. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on hot, then it blows full hot. If you turn on the heat with the heat setting on cool, then it blows cool.

The truck is beautiful and in great shape otherwise (excepted for a cracked tail light but that is an EASY fix).

If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this stuff let me know.

Thanks.

 

start with - check/cut off all the split ends at the numerous vac hoses.
reset pcm to turn the light off. it will likely stay off about 2-3 days before it comes back on.

heat problem sounds like a blend door malfunction, possibly a vac hose problem.

lights check bulbs first, then check for voltage. might need replacement of multifunction switch on the column. not too expensive $60-70 at any parts store.

 

Do a google search for heatertreater. Sounds like you are suffering from that.

 

Either the headlight issues have been covered or you have a Canadian truck and your Daytime Driving light(DRL) module is toast. It's on the drivers inner fender under the vacum booster. Unplug it and if everything works, leave unplugged.
The evap issue is likely a cracked hose or plugged charcoal canister. I vote for # 1. Both can be found on the pass side under the bed tucked up by the frame rail.
Since you're attempting forum searches...try "wild vents" or "blend door" and see what pops up.

Your truck doesn't happen to be white? I may be able to assist you with your cracked tailight.

 

Thanks for the responses! I will track down all the suggestions and report back. dsertdog, my truck is black, the opposite of white! LOL It is a sweet truck, no rust, just one bubble spot on the left rear fender.

I did fail to mention one other problem: driver door window.

Power windows, driver door will go down with one touch, but then it sounds like it doesn't realize it is down all the way it starts making a binding noise until you hit the button to make it stop. Goes down quickly and smoothly though. However, the way up is a stutter stop all the way to the top.

Any ideas on that?

 

Probably a couple things, the switch not figgering out that the window is all the way down is more than likely the switch itself. I think it looks at amp load to determine when this happens. (load spikes when the motor can't move any more)

For going up, might want to pull the door panel, and check all the guides, make sure they have some lube on them. Also, if the motor has ever been replaced, they may not have put enough pre-load on the spring that 'counter weights' the window.... and helps the motor lift it.

 

Okay, so the EVAP appears to be an easy fix. I have two large splits in the hoses going to the test unit. I believe that is what it is on the inside front of the passenger fender.

Anyone know the best way to fix those? Just cut the hose and reinsert? Or should I get new hose? Should I get extensions since the hoses are bent going into the unit?

 

Power window switches are sentient???

 

No one will ever convince me that vehicles are soulless piles of assorted parts.

 

So the headlights are not the switch. Got a new one, same problem. However, I think it has to do with the wiring being messed with on the truck. There is a white wire spliced into one of the wires from the wiring harness on the back of the switch, snaked down through the dash. Not sure where it goes, but I left it. The truck has a trailer brake unit, as well as aftermarket keyless entry/remote start. So it could be related to either one of them. The wiring under the steering column is just a mess! LOL I hate messing with wiring cause I had a car one time that nearly caught fire because the previous owner had done a crappy job of putting in an aftermarket radio and screwed with all the wiring.

On the heat I am going to check the blender part that goes and replace it with a new one if need be. Can't see paying $35 for the stainless heattreater one.

Haven't messed with the window yet either.