If you can jump the wires AT the starter, then your problem does indeed lie in the circuit controlled by the ignition switch. The switch just trips the relay in the PDC. The relay actually powers the solenoid, which, in turn, fires the rest of the starter.

Swap the starter relay with the horn relay, see if that doesn't fix it up.

 

but we have power down at the starter. is it possible to still have power to the starter with a bad relay?
when i talked to him about the two wires that lead to the starter (the big one and small one), he told me he only checked the larger one. i think the next two things we'll try are swappin the relays, and Ohm-ing out the little wire. if those dont fix the porblem and if im not too p***ed at the thing, ill pull the console apart again and see if there might be a break there

 

As long as the positive cable is connected to the battery you will always have power to the starter as the "hot" side of the circuit comes from the battery, the ignition switch and relay actually close the "cold" or negative side of the circuit to engage the starter. The relay is most likely the problem, if it doesnt pull closed when you turn the key to start then there will be not power to the solenoid, by crossing the posts on the starter all you are doing is manually routing power directly from the battery to the solenoid, effectively eliminating the ignition circuit all together. Definitely start at the relay.

 

The way the starter works is, the FAT wire supplies main power (high amperage draw) for the starter motor itself. (and ALWAYS has power) The little wire, that goes to the solenoid, is only powered when you have the key in the start position. (at least, it is SUPPOSED to be powered then, yours apparently is not) The little wire energizes the solenoid, which serves to push the starter gear out to engage the gear on the flex-plate, but, ALSO closes the contacts from the fat wire, to the starter motor windings. What you are doing when you jump from the fat wire, to the little wire terminal, is bypassing the ignition switch starting circuit.

The little wire needs to have at LEAST nine volts with the key in the start position, in order for the solenoid to engage properly. If it doesn't have it, then you either get a click, with not starter motor running, or, nothing at all.....

The ignition switch itself just trips the relay. The relay is what actually energizes the little wire to the starter. So, find out where the circuit is failing. There are wiring diagrams available in the factory service manual, that you can download from the FAQ section here.

 

So if one goes back and rereads this entire thread - because it apperas that there is some information that is not making it across......

Does this part concern anyone else?

"Originally Posted by rodeofan5656 thats a good point. but that doesnt explain why we can jump the power from POS to NEG post, and it starts. i think its in the wires, like suggested before..."


See....... I am thinking if you jumped across the Pos and Neg posts, especially with a wrench (which by the way, most wrenches are NOT fused)....one MIGHT run the chance of blowing up a battery, but not very likely to start the engine.....

rodeofan, either something is off in your description or you are not following what is being stated by others. You will need a volt metere and check out the things mentioned, like the small gauge wire at the starter - both with key off, and then with key in start position. But check/swap relay first, as you can do this without climbing under truck. Do things in a systematic approach... and check the wires at the column, you may have damaged one while working in that area. When finding what is wrong it is sometimes best to start where there was recent changes or work...

Check the items mentioned, and post results of those checks. helps everyone understand in a systematic manner as well.