stainless steel brakes SSB does a rear disc kit a158-1 i think is the part number. they also do a rear slotted/drilled rotor upgrade for the rear kit too. they do drilled/slotted rotors for the front also. russell does a braided brake line kit, 2 fronts and one rear. yeh i can sell it to you too, ha... i have plans on doing all this to my dodge.

 

Fellas
So I have a 99 ram 1500 4x4 with 35" tires. I have a 4 cyl Cummins in it. I'm having breaking problems with it and I am not sure where to go. There seems to be a lot of knowledge on this thread in regards toupgrades that can be done to these half ton trucks.

So I did breaks on the truck front and rear and it still has a squishy peddle and does not stop well. When I say did breaks I mean out with the old and in with the new. I replaced everything in the back and front.

First of all the adjusters don't seem to be working and they are brand new.

I feel like the master cylinder isn't working as it should either.

What are your thoughts?

Has anyone done a master cylinder upgrade? If so what was it. I understand many of you say that it's not needed but I'd still like to know or hear if anyone has done anything.

Like I said this thing does not stop.

 

Check the brake line going to the rear. They like to rust, and break, right above the gas tank.

Having a friend help bleed the brakes doesn't hurt either. Or, a pressure bleeder......

Does der diesel have a vacuum pump for the power brakes?

 

Breaks have been bled multiple times and even flushed .

The truck has a vacuum pump on it for the break booster .

 

Spongey pedal is generally air still trapped in the system.

Excessive pedal travel is generally rear brakes out of adjustment.

There should just a bit of drag on the rears when properly adjusted. Not much, just a bit. Make sure that is correct first, and see what your pedal feels like. If you still don't like it, having a friend help bleed makes the job easier. Pump up the pedal, with all the bleeders closed, hold pressure on the pedal, and crack open a valve. (in order, RR, LR, RF, LF) Do that several times at each wheel. It helps shock loose any air bubbles that are trapped.

 

Thanks for the reply

Like I said the adjusters are not working. Even though they are brand new. I adjusted them out as far as I could that would still allow me to get the rear drums on and then backed the truck down the street for blocks trying to get the, to adjust as they should.

I bled the brakes as you described. Like I said several times as well as flushing the fluid.

I'm back to the master cylinder/brake booster. What kind of replacement/upgrades are there for replacement?

 

Make sure your adjusters are in there the right way. There is a long side and a short side there is a thrust washer inside the 2 halves also. Aldo make sure that there isn't a spring in contact with your adjuster. Review the service manual pics.





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There are slots on the backing plate, that you can adjust the brakes with the drums on.

 

I could be mistaken but I think that's only on the 2500 and up. This is a half ton axle. Am I wrong?

 

They *should* be there.... might have to punch them out though..... I have seen axles that don't have them, but, those are extremely rare. (and weren't even dodges.)