Depends on how much of a hurry you are in. And if you have a place where the metal can get warm enough for the paint to stick. On you. If you have the time, wipe it down with metal conditioner, and sand a bit. If you don't, just shoot it, and worry about it later. Re-coat as needed.

 

You can scuff it with find scotchbrite and shoot it with rattle can that matches as closely as possible until you can get it fixed correctly.

You might shop the tail lights around. E-bay has a number fo them, but some may not match exactly. FLAPS may have them but I am not sure about price. I need to replace one also and will do as I finish bidy work. I will probably do both so they match.

When the time comes for repair, post a thread or PM me. I should have the ameteur body work thing down by then! (I know I am spending a lot on sandpaper!)

 

LOL will do. Thanks guys

 

Well I haven't had any time to post all my updates so I'll bitch and ask some more questions lol.
When all this started I had a real bad miss or somethin causing surging and all kinds of craziness. Replaced everything I could think of then motor crapped out. All pistons were in pieces. So i had the motor replaced, tons of things replaced, truck ran great for a week then started getting the surges again. I shut it off immediately and towed it to my mechanic. He found that the two vacuum lines running down the passenger side frame were basically non existent. They were checked before but just visibly. They had to start pulling vacuum lines to find them and tested all the components associated and they all held vacuum except the two lines. Everything after that was good. Three weeks later, I noticed when the motor is warm, or if I start it, shut it off and turn it on again, it starts very quickly and gives me a rough idle for a min then goes away. 'Sorry for the length but trying to be thorough ). When its been sitting for a while its normal but say I stop and get gas or run into the store and start it back up it does it again.

 

Might run a bit rich at warm start up, till the O2 sensor heat back up again...... Either that, or maybe you have an injector leaking??

 

My mechanic did a bunch of reading which led him to find those vacuum lines. Said certain conditions that I don't remember , maybe temp or something, opens the valve to vacuum system? Not sure what I'm talkin about but have an idea in my head lol that's why he said my truck was running fine and then would start acting up because those two lines running down the passenger side werent being used until rhen certain conditions triggered the valve to open. Does this sound somewhat right? He's saying that he thinks the same thing is happening but on much smaller level. Maybe a small crack or hole they missed and when i start the truck without letting it sit for long the system is still open.
Any thoughts/comments/criticism? Lol

 

I suspected an injector also. Visibly they were good but may be mechanically worn out. Thought about replacing because I fear the same thing happening

 

Those the lines for the charcoal canister under the passenger side of the cab by any chance? If so, might wanna check those lines for carbon... see if the canister has given up the ghost.

 

I also occasionally get a knock on start. Or thump might be better word. It's very rarely but a thump underneath somewhere. It's an automatic transmission. I'm hoping its not in the oil pan again

 

Yeah those are the lines. The two that run back were replaced. I was thinking to have everything replaced. How do I check the canister? They said everything was functioning properly