Just running some thoughts here, changing the camshaft to something like this just for discussion sake: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-704121/

Does anything else really need to also be done to accommodate? My head is thinking piece meal upgrades. I'm not looking to go crazy here.

I don't know if I asked this right. I'm not an engine person, but may slowly become learned...in the arts.

thanks

 

That cam may or may not need a custom tune...... thing is, ya gotta dig pretty deep into the motor to do a cam swap...... As an alternative, I would suggest just doing 1.7 ratio roller rockers. (Harland Sharp Full Rollers) A MUCH simpler install. Doesn't annoy the PCM, accomplishes the same thing as a cam change. (longer duration at .050 valve lift, higher lift...... basically, more 'area under the curve') Not to mention, they can be had for around 300 bucks...... more than a hundred bucks cheaper than the cam.

 

Not to mention what you'd spend on gaskets and such.

 

If I'm going ahead to do plenum and timing chain, then the effort to do the cam is negligible? Like...you're already there for the water pump so just dooooo eeeettt.

Part of the thought was to get the cam in, one that is a good bump in performance but remains within spec of remaining drivetrain. Down the road do the HS rockers as they should be easier to access-wise to swap?

Amirite?

Good point on the gaskets.

 

Yeah, you would already be most of the way there. Just need to dismember the valve train..... (rockers, push rods, lifters.) I wouldn't do the rockers on an aftermarket cam that wasn't designed for it though..... Gotta watch those lift numbers. 1.7s on that cam may require valve springs as well.

 

the camshaft may be "right there" but you forgot to think about how you are going to straight pull the 2+ foot long camshaft OUT of the motor. You will need to pull the radiator and AC condenser. ANd you have to pull the heads....and the intake. You will need to pull the distributor and hope that you can put it back in the same way or you will need to get your fuel synch redone professionally. A SCT or tuner like that cannot do that.

Costs:
Camshaft: 355 bucks
Hardened Pushrods: 120 bucks
New Springs: Not sure, a couple hundred maybe. I have always assumed to upgrade the heads with the camshaft, otherwise you won;t get the most out of it. Heads will run about 900 bucks with upgraded springs.
Roller Rockers: 250 bucks. 1.6 ratio NOT 1.7 ratio. Keep the stock ratio if doing a cam. if you are getting a cam, it is a waste to not get RRs.
New Lifters: 199 bucks. Sure you can reuse hydraulics, but have you ever had a lifter go bad? Not pretty.
Gaskets: I think you can get a whole engine kit for 160 bucks.

A camshaft is a 1000 dollar job in itself. Most engine packages are camshaft and head combo kits.

A camshaft is not just something you slap in. Get 1.7RRs and call it a day.

WAIT, there is a way to swap the cam without taking the heads off:
1. pop the valvecovers
2. Put magnets on the pushrods. That will keep the lifters from dropping into your crankcase then down to your oil pan when you pull out the camshaft.

BTW, if you are not an engine guy, then a camshaft install is not for you. I have been working on 2ndgens since 2004 and I still don;t have the moxy to do a camshaft install, even though i know exactly how to do it. Too much can go wrong. Plus the damn radiator, tranny cooler and AC condenser is in the way.

 

Lets say you pull the motor out to rebuild it. Swap cams and all that fun expensive stuff, how would i kno wif i got the fuel sync right since the whole thihng has just been torn apart?

 

ryan (the OP), I apologize for committing this heinous

We all definitely want to hear about the rest of your mods. Please don't let this interrupt as I'll try to close this off here.




CPTAFW163

Thanks alot of the input. Being my bday I admittedly got quite excited. I don't know if you saw another thread, but I did order the M1 intake. So I thought to get a bit agro here with the camshaft. Honestly a couple hours before you posted I actually went to read in detail the FSM of the camshaft removal/install. Yeah...I was like Thanks for spelling out more especially seeing that special tools are needed.

Someone should write a "How to choose a camshaft and levels of progressive upgrades" or something like that. My case being I want to stay within the drivetrain specs and just pop it in various places, if that makes sense, as compared to someone that is going full bore rebuild.

Fortunately, the dealers I contacted for the above camshaft were not able to deliver to me for next week. I need to understand better the 1.7 RRs now.....

Thanks

 

The higher ratio rockers are just what they sound like.. the lobe of the cam rolls on the lifter, pressing it upward.. the lifter push rods reach to the rockers, the rockers actuate (pivot) through leverage on the valve stems, which resist via valve springs..

The leverage ratio on the valve stems are increased to a degree larger than the lobe on the cam.. in really simple terms, though not accurate, if the lobes oblong tip is one inch from center, it presses the lifter rod one inch higher.. if the pivot of the rocker is 1.5:1, the valve opens 1.5".. higher ratio rockers open them further..

1.7:1 rr's are as steep as you can go on OE heads, because the angle of the push rods will collide with the casting any steeper..

You effectively increase lift of the cam with higher ratio rockers, and also slightly increase duration, or how long its opened.. whallah, more air, more ponies..