lockout hubs on a 2500?
I have an old 2500 SLT from 1995 and am trying to cut back on gas expence.
If I install lock out hubs would it disengage the second drive shaft and save on fuel...? I thought both drive shafts turned all the time.
Thank you for reading.
If I install lock out hubs would it disengage the second drive shaft and save on fuel...? I thought both drive shafts turned all the time.
Thank you for reading.
Last edited by Troy Robinson; Dec 23, 2011 at 08:10 PM.
Technically It should be better on fuel with some locking hubs. It stops the diff from turning the drive shaft causing less friction on the drive line.
Some will argue but it is the first thing I would do with these trucks.
Some will argue but it is the first thing I would do with these trucks.
driveshaft does not turn unless 4wd is engaged. The CAD unlocks passenger side axle shaft. So the only thing spinning is driver side shaft, spider gears, and half of the right side shaft.
I totally agree and have thought long and hard about doing it on my truck, but it just cost alot of money for not really getting much out of it.
I totally agree and have thought long and hard about doing it on my truck, but it just cost alot of money for not really getting much out of it.
I try to look at if I can only gian 1 or 2 miles to the gallon then over time it would pay off. Also with the wheel bearings in the 1500 isn't a cheap repair when they need to be replaced. Did mine last year and with me doing it myself set me back a few hunderd dollars and the time in install
Last edited by Lone136; Dec 23, 2011 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Added
On the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, you can cob all the parts you need from a 92-9? 3/4 ton ford 4x4. They use the D60 as well. Its just a different version. (I believe it is quasi-independent front suspension.) Grab the knuckles, and everything that comes out with 'em. Supposedly a direct bolt on, and FAR cheaper from the yard, than the kits that are advertised.
Do this as an upgrade for better strength though. You are deluding yourself if you think this will EVER pay for itself with increased fuel economy, or hub/bearing replacement. You would have to keep the truck for a million miles for it to pay off with gas savings, and three or four sets of wheel bearings. Unless you are buying the REALLY cheap ones, and replace them every year or two, you will never recoup the money you spend on one of the kits. You would prolly get back what you spend at the yard though, if you keep the truck for five to ten years...... Maybe.
If you see even .5 mpg increase with this mod, I would be surprised.
Do this as an upgrade for better strength though. You are deluding yourself if you think this will EVER pay for itself with increased fuel economy, or hub/bearing replacement. You would have to keep the truck for a million miles for it to pay off with gas savings, and three or four sets of wheel bearings. Unless you are buying the REALLY cheap ones, and replace them every year or two, you will never recoup the money you spend on one of the kits. You would prolly get back what you spend at the yard though, if you keep the truck for five to ten years...... Maybe.
If you see even .5 mpg increase with this mod, I would be surprised.
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I just did this to my 1994 Ram 2500. If you use F-350 D60 parts you can either change from the knuckle out direct bolt on or you can do what I did. I used 1987 F-350 spindles, rotors, hubs and outer stub shafts. I installed them in my dodge knuckles with the dodge calipers, pads and ball joints. You would buy all the same year of seals and bearings to match the Ford parts and whatever 30 spline locking hubs you want. Read the link below and shoot me any questions you have.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1000570
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1000570
Here is a very long thread on the complete knuckle swap.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874442
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874442







