Any tips on a rear main seal install?
Put a dab of RTV in the two groves on the rear bearing cap.
Put a drop of anaerobic sealant (Loctite a518 or permatex, anaerobic is the key word) on each side of the rear cap where the crank rests in it.
Press the new seal against the crank when you push it in and be careful to not let it rub the block because the block can give it a shave and it will leak.
Put a drop of anaerobic sealant (Loctite a518 or permatex, anaerobic is the key word) on each side of the rear cap where the crank rests in it.
Press the new seal against the crank when you push it in and be careful to not let it rub the block because the block can give it a shave and it will leak.
Last edited by Sheriff420; Dec 19, 2011 at 11:38 PM.
In the directions at http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
it says if your having trouble getting the top seal to move to "loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal."
Are the bearing caps 2 large bolts and there are four sets of them?
it says if your having trouble getting the top seal to move to "loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal."
Are the bearing caps 2 large bolts and there are four sets of them?
Yep. I would loosen the cap right in front of the rear cap, then try the seal. If that doesn't do it then I would hit the cap in front of that one and try the seal again. I think I only had to take the rear cap off then loosen the one in front of it to get my seal out. I can't remember though, it's been a while.
Last edited by Sheriff420; Dec 20, 2011 at 11:24 AM.
In the directions at http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
it says if your having trouble getting the top seal to move to "loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal."
Are the bearing caps 2 large bolts and there are four sets of them?
it says if your having trouble getting the top seal to move to "loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal."
Are the bearing caps 2 large bolts and there are four sets of them?
I removed the oil pan, removed the oil pump, removed the bearing cover that holds the lower rear main seal.
I am currently looking at the upper rear main seal and it really doesnt look like its going to go easy.
Just wondering from guys who have done this before if it was a major pain or if it came out fairly easy and if they had any tips.
The seal isnt leaking but I already have the pan off so I might as well get everything fixed up while I am in there.
I have read the DIY at http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
I am currently looking at the upper rear main seal and it really doesnt look like its going to go easy.
Just wondering from guys who have done this before if it was a major pain or if it came out fairly easy and if they had any tips.
The seal isnt leaking but I already have the pan off so I might as well get everything fixed up while I am in there.
I have read the DIY at http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
The truck has 120000 on it and im already in there changing the pan gasket and oil pump why ignore the rear main thats right there.
I bought the truck with 10,000 on it so I know the seal has not been changed.
I bought the truck with 10,000 on it so I know the seal has not been changed.
So? If it's not leaking, then don't screw with it. Sorry, I guess my line of thinking isn't along yours.











