14x3 question
LOL, Thank God I'm back to work, but before that it was more like something in the Coors Lite can and the Red Hook bottle. Add those two things along with the "peg leg" nickname and things were not pretty. LOL
No, that's nothing at all to worry about. In an enclosed stationary engine it's something to think about, but in a motor vehicle it's no big thang.
My truck had a 14x3 when I bought it. I replaced it because of all the reasons mentioned plus cost of good filters is less. I replaced it with an aluminum CAI from ebay that was like $30... the cotton reusable filters are cheaper (I got a $10 replacement one sitting in front of me that just came in the mail... works great and no loud sucking noise... I used the breather hookup on the base of the air filter and havent had any issues yet. (The air filter actually came with a silicone breather hose.)
at slower speeds like when off roading it does make a difference in intake temp... I never had a way of looking at air intake temp with driving until now with bluetooth/torque setup... Its something I would have compared... but the air under the hood is still plenty hot ...a lot of it comes through the hot radiator before blowing into the engine compartment... so if the CAI is properly isolated it does help make HP, not a lot bit hey every bit helps and its certainly more effective than colored 8mm spark plug wires or throttle body spacers...
at slower speeds like when off roading it does make a difference in intake temp... I never had a way of looking at air intake temp with driving until now with bluetooth/torque setup... Its something I would have compared... but the air under the hood is still plenty hot ...a lot of it comes through the hot radiator before blowing into the engine compartment... so if the CAI is properly isolated it does help make HP, not a lot bit hey every bit helps and its certainly more effective than colored 8mm spark plug wires or throttle body spacers...
Last edited by Augiedoggy; Dec 27, 2011 at 02:51 PM.
You get about 1 horsepower for every ten degree temp drop....... (and vice versa....) 14x3 is going to be pretty much useless for that just cruising around town, but then, it's not like you NEED a lot of extra power, that the three of four horsepower is going to make any difference at all. On the freeway, you should have pretty good airflow thru the engine bay in any event.... so, not as much of an issue there either... If you offroad, yeah, 14x3 is going to compromise power, as most of the time, you are moving fairly slow, so airflow thru the engine is mostly generated by the radiator fan.... If you have e-fans, it becomes even more of an issue, unless it is hot out, and they are running constantly......
Ceramic coated headers will do more for reducing intake temps than any CAI system that draws air from the stock location. Technically, the stock setup IS a CAI.... for certain values thereof...... but, it draws air from the fender.... and with all the fender stuff in place, it ends up grabbing air from the hole at the front of the fender, that leads into....... (drum roll please...) the engine compartment.....
Only way to have a CAI system that actually DOES what it is supposed to, ALL the time, is to draw air someplace OTHER THAN under the hood...... Ram Air, Cowl induction, whathaveyou. The system needs to be isolated such that it draws outside air. Not air that has been nicely warmed by the radiator/exhaust manifolds/engine block, etc. This type of system also has the added advantage of you will KNOW when your air inlet is about to be submerged in that deep stream crossing you are attempting, BEFORE it becomes absolutely obvious when your engine hydro-locks, and destroys itself.
Ceramic coated headers will do more for reducing intake temps than any CAI system that draws air from the stock location. Technically, the stock setup IS a CAI.... for certain values thereof...... but, it draws air from the fender.... and with all the fender stuff in place, it ends up grabbing air from the hole at the front of the fender, that leads into....... (drum roll please...) the engine compartment.....
Only way to have a CAI system that actually DOES what it is supposed to, ALL the time, is to draw air someplace OTHER THAN under the hood...... Ram Air, Cowl induction, whathaveyou. The system needs to be isolated such that it draws outside air. Not air that has been nicely warmed by the radiator/exhaust manifolds/engine block, etc. This type of system also has the added advantage of you will KNOW when your air inlet is about to be submerged in that deep stream crossing you are attempting, BEFORE it becomes absolutely obvious when your engine hydro-locks, and destroys itself.
You get about 1 horsepower for every ten degree temp drop....... (and vice versa....) 14x3 is going to be pretty much useless for that just cruising around town, but then, it's not like you NEED a lot of extra power, that the three of four horsepower is going to make any difference at all. On the freeway, you should have pretty good airflow thru the engine bay in any event.... so, not as much of an issue there either... If you offroad, yeah, 14x3 is going to compromise power, as most of the time, you are moving fairly slow, so airflow thru the engine is mostly generated by the radiator fan.... If you have e-fans, it becomes even more of an issue, unless it is hot out, and they are running constantly......
Ceramic coated headers will do more for reducing intake temps than any CAI system that draws air from the stock location. Technically, the stock setup IS a CAI.... for certain values thereof...... but, it draws air from the fender.... and with all the fender stuff in place, it ends up grabbing air from the hole at the front of the fender, that leads into....... (drum roll please...) the engine compartment.....
Only way to have a CAI system that actually DOES what it is supposed to, ALL the time, is to draw air someplace OTHER THAN under the hood...... Ram Air, Cowl induction, whathaveyou. The system needs to be isolated such that it draws outside air. Not air that has been nicely warmed by the radiator/exhaust manifolds/engine block, etc. This type of system also has the added advantage of you will KNOW when your air inlet is about to be submerged in that deep stream crossing you are attempting, BEFORE it becomes absolutely obvious when your engine hydro-locks, and destroys itself.
Ceramic coated headers will do more for reducing intake temps than any CAI system that draws air from the stock location. Technically, the stock setup IS a CAI.... for certain values thereof...... but, it draws air from the fender.... and with all the fender stuff in place, it ends up grabbing air from the hole at the front of the fender, that leads into....... (drum roll please...) the engine compartment.....
Only way to have a CAI system that actually DOES what it is supposed to, ALL the time, is to draw air someplace OTHER THAN under the hood...... Ram Air, Cowl induction, whathaveyou. The system needs to be isolated such that it draws outside air. Not air that has been nicely warmed by the radiator/exhaust manifolds/engine block, etc. This type of system also has the added advantage of you will KNOW when your air inlet is about to be submerged in that deep stream crossing you are attempting, BEFORE it becomes absolutely obvious when your engine hydro-locks, and destroys itself.
I'll tell you what...I have the old 14x3 setup still I just need a filter...if I can find one I'll compare the intake temps while driving around.... I have a body lift and mine is sucking air right next to the huge gap below the fender right now...if I bothered to fab something up real quick I know I could have it suck cold air from beside the radiator without any additional costs. and being that where it sits my filter is now well over 4 ft off the ground about level with my pcm if I submerged it I would have a lot of other serious problem to deal with..
I noticed here CAI seem taboo in favor of retro looking round carb style air filter but almost all of your performance vehicles use some form of CAI these days??
Last edited by Augiedoggy; Dec 27, 2011 at 03:17 PM.
well 3 or 4 hp from an air intake that costs the same or cheaper than a 14x3 is a better investment than the 10-14 hp you would get from something like a $3-400 roller rocker setup? Thats the only point I'm trying to make... one performs better than the other so if all else is equal cost wise why not go with one that has a functional advantage? people spend lots more for less effective ways to get 1 or 2 hp here...
And THAT works All the Time.Sure, 300 bucks for roller rockers, that net 10 to 20 horsepower seems a bit expensive, (and for some of us, yes, it IS expensive...) but, that power is there, regardless. Doesn't matter what you are doing, you will ALWAYS be getting pretty much the same benefit from the RR's.
well 3 or 4 hp from an air intake that costs the same or cheaper than a 14x3 is a better investment than the 10-14 hp you would get from something like a $3-400 roller rocker setup? (they advertize 14-24hp but those that tested with a dyno measure closer to 10) Thats the only point I'm trying to make... one performs better than the other so if all else is equal cost wise why not go with one that has a functional advantage? people spend lots more for less effective ways to get 1 or 2 hp here... what do short header get? I've been told hardly any measurable power increase yet a lot of people here use them right?
A lot of people , me included, lost bottom end after a 14x3 mod. Maybe ok for someone with other mods, but the 1.7's are by far a better mod. Assuming all else is well. Like plenum and the rest of the parts that go with that story.







