i don't think so. maybe your thinking about the other 5.9l, the diesel.
the 5.2 and 5.9, along with the 3.9v6 and the old school 340 small block are essentially the same engine, with different stroke and bore combinations.

 

I know with an auto trans you have to use the flexplate from the 360. Most likely same for the flywheel. Other than that, there is no problem as stated above.

 

for an auto the flywheel/ flexplate and the torque converters are different. but the bolt patterns and wiring harness are the same

 

so with my manual I'm golden? I've been shopping around, looking for combinations. I read that the Keith Black flat top pistons, along with better heads give the 318 the compression it should have, and the Extreme Energy cam create quite the power increase. I wanna start top to bottom, working my way up the engine block. I've never done anything like this so its more of an experiment slash learning experience. I've torn trannys out, replaced clutches, shocks, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Never rebuilt an engine. It has so many miles and I just want to feel like I can get 200,000 more out of it. I always feel its ready to explode. It runs so strong though. That's why I think I should just stick with the 318, grab a block from the junk yard and start messing with it, learn hands on while not deleting my only means of transportation. It back fires between shifts ( I think its just the hole in the exhaust ), smells terrible inside, engine light comes on and off weeks at a time, stalls for no reason, then runs like a champ for a month before it acts up. Thing has a personality.

 

Need the right flywheel for the engine. 318 is internally balanced, 360 is externally balanced, use the wrong flywheel, and you will smoke the motor right quick.

Making major changes to the engine, you also have to consider what you are going to do about the tune. 94-95 trucks, you will have to send your PCM out for a custom tune, at 250 bucks a pop, and they very seldom get it right the first time. 96 and up you can get a tuner from hemifever for 365, and get free updates as needed. (wideband O2 sensor REALLY helps here.....)

 

Yeah I've been pondering if switching to carburated would be easier on me tuning wise. But, then I don't know what I would do as far as getting fuel to it, would be from the fuel pump in the tank? . I hate fuel injection, I was in auto tech and took a fuel systems class and honestly didn't understand any of it. That's why I didn't finish my turbo project, I had no idea how to tune the thing lol. I can build anything, I could probably tear apart and rebuild everything myself, but tuning is going to be the area I just don't know anything about. I'm one of those guys who ( and you guys probably hate dudes like me ) doesn't know anything about engines, but loves to try anyways lol. I've been studying the forum and reading up on the plenum. There is a guy offering a complete kit here for like 165, wires and distributor. So, to wet my beak, I'm probably tackle that first. It needs brakes, the sway bar links are bent, front end is loose (not sure if I should be able to wiggle the whole tie rod), its got so many issues I'm not sure if its worth it.

 

Oh, and what is this "Kegger mod" I'm reading about here and there? I know the manifold looks like a keg, but what is the mod?

 

Its in the FAQ/DIY section, along with a lot of other interesting info.

 

Tuning is taken care of by PCM. Get SCT tuner form hemifever.com.

Distributor? Or distributor cap? If cap, make sure is has brass contacts and not aluminum. If distributor ---- don't! Why change it? And do not loosen it and adjust. It will throw fuel synch off and have to paya shop to reset.

Tie rods are easy. Change them out. Adjust new ones to same length as old ones, then get from end aligned. But check ball joints first because if they need replacing, you will be paying to two front end alignments instead of one.

Get 8mm wires. The 6mm are not as good. I used MSD, but there is a thread with survey about what brand others are using I think (or maybe that's plugs). Good wire set is not cheap, but cheap wire sets are not good. There are no points in the disty to adjust, so tuning is not the same as carb engines. The PCM with a good tune takes care of all that.

I would recommend cleaing IAC and checking the TPS while you have it down. Instructions in the Haynes manual. Easy task.

There may be a lot to do, but just take it in steps, prioritze by the need and your budget.

And I cannot remmebr if it has been mentioned, but just in case, while you have the intake off to do the plenum, that is the perfect time to change timing chan and sprocvket (use a double roller chain) and also the water pump, as it has to come out to do the timing chain!

Good luck!

 

Damn! That was an amazing in depth DIY!!!! Ok, so before I get performance happy, here is my new list of crap to start:

Get all the necessary tools to do the "Kegger Mod".

Get Plenum fix kit.

Do a Heli coil on my #2 cylinder because god hates me. (this happened to me on the same cylinder on a 98 Ram I had.

Plugs Wires Distributor

Water pump

Comp Cams, roller rockers, timing chain

Thanks guys! Once I get this stuff done I'll start looking into the lower end of the motor.

I'll let you guys know in a few weeks when I have the materials start!