Because swapping cranks is not an easy job. Balancing and blueprinting a crank is not something a non-professional can do. Do you know what plastigauge is and what it is used for? If not, then you don't really know how much work is involved with swapping a rotating assembly.

Plus you will need 170 dollars in gaskets
Another 150 dollars in fasteners (I would not reuse rod bolts, and would upgrade to ARPs)
New mains
Re-hone bore
Piston rings
Injectors (You WILL need bigger ones)
Custom Tune
Throttle Body
Custom exhaust to get the potential of the gains.
about 2 months of downtime

So you are looking at about 4 grand with doing a 408 plus a lot of begging friends to help you.

 

Break in period done. Swapped over to Mobil 1.

Then a squirrel seems to have shown up, but isn't visible. Sound got progressively consistent but hard to pin down. Seemed mostly driver side....tick tick tick tick

Upon discussions with my mentor Merc225hp, it was plausible that lifter oiling holes not up. It was a late night when I dropped those in like candy. So it was decided to open the rager back up.

First review of rockers seemed fine. All had oil on them, which indicated oil coming up through pushrods. So the oiling holes of the lifters...may not be bad. No bad valve springs. No bad pushrods.

Proceeded and reviewed the lifters. After the 6th one I came upon my first lifter not oriented right. By the end, total of 5 lifters were oiling down. So that teardown and fix was last night.

Tonight...whipped it all back together. Fired right back up. Ran it for about 10-15 mins total. Ticking still there, although seems like its the lifters doing it. I've read and heard that this isn't too uncommon.

So gonna see how this goes the next few days.

Well, now I know how fast I can do this effort. lol

If you got any input, then by all means shoot it.

ps. I will be checking for exhaust leaks though. I do have one post cat, pre muffler. It's a sleeve. So gotta run seafoam and get more definitive.

pps. Also got a 2" spacer to get my KN tube back on. Need a longer bolt now though.

 

Did you reuse lifters by chance? If you did, how many miles on the old ones?



It's not uncommon for reused lifters to tick. The travel of the push rod cup in the lifter bore will be different with a non stock cam. They tend to wear a small groovein the inner bore. The new travel of the cam usually doesn't match the old travel pattern, and a few 100 miles of travel may break them in and cease the ticking.


Also check for exhaust leaks if you had any reason to remove a head

 

Brand new ones. Crane cam lifters to match. Hardly look any different from the oem ones.

Did not have to remove heads at all.

I do know pushrods making some contact with guideplates. Everything is stock valvetrain.

 

Switch back to dino oil, and see if the problem goes away.

 

Lolz. You've been biding your time to drop that one.


Drove into work this morning. It's long enough to get to NOT <-- normal operation temperature.

Tick is gone......!!!!

Patience is learned not yet this one.


Here is a sample picture of a lifter right and wrong with respect to oiling hole. This is cylinder 4.




Will keep progress posted for you cool mugs.


Thanks for chiming in aim and HY. I do appreciate it. The dino oil is not outside of consideration either.

 

I'll wager your new lifters installed incorrectly was your problem.

Now, if your push rods are contacting the guide plates, I'd get that corrected asap. Contact should only occur if a lifter is deflated due to prolonged lack of running the engine. They are there to keep the push rod in line while the engine pumps up the lifter. They should not be touching on a fully inflated lifter.

 

Yes, they were corrected on this redo. The contact was very slight.

I meant that I knew they were contacting when I opened it all up Monday night.

 

Super Bump on this thread.

The camswap remains installed and no issues since. I love the performance out of it.

Super thanks to merc225hp for all the guidance (most), as well as others.