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Cam change in progress w/pics.

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  #21  
Old 01-08-2012, 10:53 PM
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i have read of some people using a long piece 1/2" threaded rod and large fender washers to press them out and back in. don't know how easy it would be.

the pics you have posted almost scare me enough to make me not want to replace the cam and lifters in my truck.
 
  #22  
Old 01-08-2012, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
First I would make sure that you can actually do them from the front..... (no need to yank the engine if you don't have to....)

If you can, I would definitely change them. (new cam... new bearings.....)
They are definitely going to be changed out. Just researching how its been done. I do have a machine shop to inquire with that does magnums...

Found this posting and I'd say he was worse off then me: http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...3-Cam-Bearings

Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
i have read of some people using a long piece 1/2" threaded rod and large fender washers to press them out and back in. don't know how easy it would be.

the pics you have posted almost scare me enough to make me not want to replace the cam and lifters in my truck.
In the link above there is another link to a homemade tool. Looks cool. My pics pale in comparison. lol

I think my experience can at least give insight to potential camshaft bearing condition. Galling being the primary degradation mechanism, most likely a result of low oil pressure over some appreciable time.

I think I may just replace with following:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-SH875S

Any other suggestions are welcome. Lining up the galley holes goes without saying. I've been quite meticulous with this whole thing, minus the nicks due to cam removal.....

Thanks for the eyes and input and welcome more.


ps. forgot this good article about mopar oiling system.

http://www.moparmagazine.com/2011/ju...ne_oiling.html
 

Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; 01-09-2012 at 12:20 AM.
  #23  
Old 01-08-2012, 11:24 PM
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I used to always coat cam and cam bearings (as well as crank) with STP on installation so they are not dry on first crank. I would also recomment mic'ing the bearing ID and cam OD before installation to make sure the fit is correct.
 
  #24  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
First I would make sure that you can actually do them from the front..... (no need to yank the engine if you don't have to....)

If you can, I would definitely change them. (new cam... new bearings.....)
Confirmed with experienced machine shop. Gotta yank the engine.



Gonna flex some muscles. Then I'll just have him remove and install them. Big recommendation was to also check the main bearings b/c of this condition.
 
  #25  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:48 AM
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You familiar with the term "Scope Creep"?
 
  #26  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Note that embarking on this cam change I was prepared for show stoppers. This definitely is one. I am partially pissed off, but also relieved. Relieved that it was caught prior to the galling making a formal introduction to my life.

I wonder if there is enough room to swap the bearings now or should I yank the engine out. I have access to a hoist and stand.
Originally Posted by HeyYou
You familiar with the term "Scope Creep"?
Very familiar. Not only with this but also in the workplace. It's always been a potential here. You know, plan for the worst and hope for the best? lol

ps. even with the family. went in for our first ultrasound expecting a singleton...nope, twins!!
 
  #27  
Old 01-09-2012, 02:48 PM
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....new short block here I come.
 
  #28  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:34 PM
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Pretty sure the block doesn't NEED to be removed, but machine shop will tell you that because it's a whipping to do in the truck.

For the front bearing, you must pull it as you need to pound it out from the back, but not if you were just doing #4.
 
  #29  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
Pretty sure the block doesn't NEED to be removed, but machine shop will tell you that because it's a whipping to do in the truck.

For the front bearing, you must pull it as you need to pound it out from the back, but not if you were just doing #4.
+1...... And the extra clearance of the BL can only help. No way that motor needs to come out.
 
  #30  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Confirmed with experienced machine shop. Gotta yank the engine.
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
Pretty sure the block doesn't NEED to be removed, but machine shop will tell you that because it's a whipping to do in the truck.

For the front bearing, you must pull it as you need to pound it out from the back, but not if you were just doing #4.
Originally Posted by zman17
+1...... And the extra clearance of the BL can only help. No way that motor needs to come out.
Thanks
 


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