Need Help - 1995 Ram 1500 - 5.2L
#1
Need Help - 1995 Ram 1500 - 5.2L
Hello all,
So I am new to this site. I joined as I am trying to work out some issue with my 'new' Dodge Ram 1500. Here is the story.
Test drove and ran great. Bought the tuck. Had about a 1/5th of a tank of gas. Filled the tank (eeek?)Was about half way home (30 miles down the road) and I decided to gently step it down and away it went. Then about 2-3 miles down the road it shifted out of overdrive...I kept having to press down the gas to keep it going then it continued to lose speed all the way down to a dead stop. My Dad and brother were behind me and smelled rotten eggs during this roll to 0mph. Started it back up and made it about 5 miles...slowed down again with the throttle pinned. It got progressively worse. then got about 2 miles from the house after dying the 5th time started it up and it ran just fine. Put on 10 miles around town all under 50mph and it ran fine. The other night I took it for a long drive (70 miles round trip interstate speeds 65mph) and the last 3 miles it started to do the same thing except this time I can limp it up to about 30 mph. When I step it down it really 'bogs down' I have now about 1/3 of a tank and have put in 2 cans of seafoam, stabil and injector cleaner as a auto store thinks it might just be bad gas. I also have replaced the IAC, changed oil and filter, as well the alternator (not for this sake but the one I had was dying) I was thinking of pulling the 02 sensors pre cat and seeing what happens. No Check engine codes when running. Only check engine code when not running is the torque converter clutch solenoid which this truck didn't come with the tow package so, I've read that code is normal as long as the CE light is off when running. My air filter did have a black residue where the line comes into the air box. I noticed the other day now since this issue it idles and runs much quieter as when it was running how it should run. Normally the exhaust is much louder. I had my friend put his hand by the exhaust to feel for air flow when I hit the gas and he said air flow was all good. I knocked on the Cat to listen for rattling and nothing was thinkg maybe a fin was blocking the exhaust. Lastly I noticed a hissing/air sound through the dash this time now when its running poorly as well it made this sound when it died on my way home. Not sure if this is just because the ac/heat is on a vacuum system and the poor running conditions are 'straining' it or if it might be part of the problem.
Sorry for the long message.
Thoughts?
Truck has just over 124,000 miles on it.
So I am new to this site. I joined as I am trying to work out some issue with my 'new' Dodge Ram 1500. Here is the story.
Test drove and ran great. Bought the tuck. Had about a 1/5th of a tank of gas. Filled the tank (eeek?)Was about half way home (30 miles down the road) and I decided to gently step it down and away it went. Then about 2-3 miles down the road it shifted out of overdrive...I kept having to press down the gas to keep it going then it continued to lose speed all the way down to a dead stop. My Dad and brother were behind me and smelled rotten eggs during this roll to 0mph. Started it back up and made it about 5 miles...slowed down again with the throttle pinned. It got progressively worse. then got about 2 miles from the house after dying the 5th time started it up and it ran just fine. Put on 10 miles around town all under 50mph and it ran fine. The other night I took it for a long drive (70 miles round trip interstate speeds 65mph) and the last 3 miles it started to do the same thing except this time I can limp it up to about 30 mph. When I step it down it really 'bogs down' I have now about 1/3 of a tank and have put in 2 cans of seafoam, stabil and injector cleaner as a auto store thinks it might just be bad gas. I also have replaced the IAC, changed oil and filter, as well the alternator (not for this sake but the one I had was dying) I was thinking of pulling the 02 sensors pre cat and seeing what happens. No Check engine codes when running. Only check engine code when not running is the torque converter clutch solenoid which this truck didn't come with the tow package so, I've read that code is normal as long as the CE light is off when running. My air filter did have a black residue where the line comes into the air box. I noticed the other day now since this issue it idles and runs much quieter as when it was running how it should run. Normally the exhaust is much louder. I had my friend put his hand by the exhaust to feel for air flow when I hit the gas and he said air flow was all good. I knocked on the Cat to listen for rattling and nothing was thinkg maybe a fin was blocking the exhaust. Lastly I noticed a hissing/air sound through the dash this time now when its running poorly as well it made this sound when it died on my way home. Not sure if this is just because the ac/heat is on a vacuum system and the poor running conditions are 'straining' it or if it might be part of the problem.
Sorry for the long message.
Thoughts?
Truck has just over 124,000 miles on it.
#2
not no engine wiz but it seems like you have one seriously blown plenum gasket....https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...um-thread.html
#4
#5
+1 on the plenum. And pull the upstream O2 sendsor out and see if it is any better, and if so, cat is clogged. FLAPS will sell you mystical snake oil all day.....that won't fix whatever is wrong.
And I am not sure of the TC clutch thing. That does not make sense.
Go to FAQ/DIY section and download FSM. It will be helpful along the way. Keep us posted with results as you go.
Welcome to DF!
And I am not sure of the TC clutch thing. That does not make sense.
Go to FAQ/DIY section and download FSM. It will be helpful along the way. Keep us posted with results as you go.
Welcome to DF!
#6
That's the classic description of a clogged cat. The rotten egg smell is a dead give-away.
In addition to a new cat, you'll need a new oxygen sensor. Were it mine, I'd want to solve the oil control problem before putting on the new cat, but wouldn't want to risk cracking one or both heads (hoping they're not already cracked) by running the thing against a clogged catalytic converter.
Addressing the oil control problem: You say you've got oil in the air hat, which indicates a PCV valve that's stuck closed. When that happens the air flow in that hose from the valve cover to the air hat reverses; normally, PCV air flow is in through the air filter and down that hose, into and across the crankcase, and up through the PCV valve to the intake manifold. When the PCV valve sticks closed (or is just plugged off, which I've seen foolishly done) blow-by gas flows into the crankcase (as it normally does) and is drawn up through the PCV intake hose into the air hat -- it's a low pressure area at the top of that hose due to the moving air within the air hat.
You might also have a blown plenum gasket, BUT you may not. A leak there would tend to prevent the air flow from reversing in that hose.
So, were it me being the wrench monkey: I'd start with compression and leakdown testing of the cylinders because of the risk of a cracked head, and hope like hell no failure is indicated. Then I'd get the cat out of the system and do the test from the TSB for the plenum gasket failure, and correct as necessary. Then I'd jam in a new PCV valve, inspect the hose from it to the intake manifold for compromise and replace if necessary, then go on to installing the new cat and pre-cat oxygen sensor.
In addition to a new cat, you'll need a new oxygen sensor. Were it mine, I'd want to solve the oil control problem before putting on the new cat, but wouldn't want to risk cracking one or both heads (hoping they're not already cracked) by running the thing against a clogged catalytic converter.
Addressing the oil control problem: You say you've got oil in the air hat, which indicates a PCV valve that's stuck closed. When that happens the air flow in that hose from the valve cover to the air hat reverses; normally, PCV air flow is in through the air filter and down that hose, into and across the crankcase, and up through the PCV valve to the intake manifold. When the PCV valve sticks closed (or is just plugged off, which I've seen foolishly done) blow-by gas flows into the crankcase (as it normally does) and is drawn up through the PCV intake hose into the air hat -- it's a low pressure area at the top of that hose due to the moving air within the air hat.
You might also have a blown plenum gasket, BUT you may not. A leak there would tend to prevent the air flow from reversing in that hose.
So, were it me being the wrench monkey: I'd start with compression and leakdown testing of the cylinders because of the risk of a cracked head, and hope like hell no failure is indicated. Then I'd get the cat out of the system and do the test from the TSB for the plenum gasket failure, and correct as necessary. Then I'd jam in a new PCV valve, inspect the hose from it to the intake manifold for compromise and replace if necessary, then go on to installing the new cat and pre-cat oxygen sensor.
Last edited by UnregisteredUser; 01-10-2012 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Corrected a thinko.
#7
Awesome thanks for all the help. I just peaked into the TB last night it is pretty gunked up with oil. So I'll be doing this work Saturday. Also going to put in a 180 thermostat, new O2 sensors, new Cat and possibly new plugs, wires, rotor and cap....any suggestions as what brands I should stay away from?!? Thanks again for all your help!! I will post an update Saturday night once I am finished.
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#8
Get NTK, or Denso O2 sensors. Stay away from bosch. Don't buy the rare-earth plugs either. (platinum, irridium, unobtainium.... etc.) Our trucks don't like 'em much. If you are over 100K miles, do the timing chain and gears as well. (double roller please.) If you aren't going for a tune, just stick with the stock 195 stat.