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Lift related talk

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  #21  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mstephen89
you could do it with a body lift. I would normally be with HeyYou, but lets say you do the body lift first, and run 35's for a while, then later you could step up to a bigger suspension lift and run much bigger tires. if you do a little suspension lift now, then you will just end up throwing away those parts later (if you want more lift later).

That being said you would probably only need a 2 or 3 inch spacer up front, which they are very cheap(alot cheaper then a body lift). as for the back, no lift is necessary, but the truck will sit a little bit bulldog, but some people like that.

The "bulldog" has the greatest ability to absolutely kill mpgs, I did level lift and AALs and the spacers came in first so I had the front up for a day and the truck was worthless, I'd never run a truck like that. And I have 341/2s and 3.55s at about 5,000 elevation and the truck is kinda a pain to drive through town, but very doable if you ain't got all kind of money my $.02
 
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  #22  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:41 PM
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go ahead and regear, to 4.88's. its not that much lower then 4.56's. how could a bulldog lift kill mpg?
 
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  #23  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:55 PM
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35's and 4.56=perfect combination
 
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  #24  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:01 PM
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To keep RPM close to stock, 4.56 for 35's, 4.10 for 33's. If you want some more low end grunt, at the expense of some highway fuel economy, 4.88's with the 35's, and 4.56 with the 33's.
 
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  #25  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:36 PM
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how much does it cost to regear and is a DIY job?
 
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  #26  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:41 PM
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for most people it's not a DIY job, but if you did it yourself plan on spending around 700-800 for parts. Most places where I live will regear your light truck or jeep for around 800 dollars an axle.
 
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:47 PM
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Ah, if I do it, it shall be in the not so near future then.
 
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  #28  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DodgeLooney00
My truck's pretty much identical and I have 33's on the stock 16's and I hear slight rubbing (Only on hard turns). all you need is a 2 inch lift and you'll clear 35's. BUt I agree, larger tires in general will decrease your mileage unless you re-gear....
I have a 3" lift and 35" tires and they rub in the front so... 5" is the right amount to safetly run 35" tires and actually benefit from them without them causing you more problems and damage rubbing offroad....mines a 1500 though... there is a chart here on an older thread about this you can find if you search.
I agree 4.56 gears with 35" tires is nice..even the speedometer is on and not 6 or 7 mph off like many of the lifted trucks out there...
the thing is most kids want big tires but have no money to do it right with a lift or regearing...result is very sluggish truck with a trashed transmission and a truck that usually gets put up for sale in sort order
35" tire and 3,55 gears on this truck will make it drive like your towing with a 4 banger under the hood....
 
Last edited by Augiedoggy; 01-11-2012 at 12:27 AM.
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  #29  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
the thing is most kids want big tires but have no money to do it right with a lift or regearing...result is very sluggish truck with a trashed transmission and a truck that usually gets put up for sale in sort order
couldn't have said it better..i see that in my area all too much..stupid people that dont do research
 
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:09 AM
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I have a 3" lift and am running 36" swampers, they still rub a little bit. I really recommend coil spacers and rear blocks. I put it on in a couple hours and mine was less than $200 from Zone Offroad
 
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