New to the forum and found sanity here with this break line issue, since it appears its a common thing to these Ram trucks. Mine is the same story going down the road, pedal goes to the bottom, spongy breaks, empty break fluid reservoir, lots of liquid near the fuel tank, etc, etc.

With that background I have the following questions -due to its frequency-:
1) Does any part store -dealer- sells these rear break lines preformed?

I'm a bit mechanically incline, but less than the frequent weekend warriors type, so the rest of my questions have to do with the do-it-your-self process. Hopefully one of you guys that have already gone through it can give a helping hand.

2) What is the correct break line size "diameter" to get? 3) How many linear feet should I get?

Because I lost all break fluid in the reservoir above the master cylinder, 4) Do I need to take out my current master cylinder to bench bleed it, or would I be alright, by just bleeding all four wheels at their calipers, piston area?

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Here's what I have research so far. There's a company called Eastwood that sells, stainless steel break lines. Would that be recommended? Also they sell "professional" flaring tool, way more than having the work done by a mechanic, but looks easy to use and cool, I saw a video of it.

None the less many thanks for your help guys, what a great forum.

 

1) i think part stores only sell straight or rolled sections. because of how easy it is the bend a break line, i dont think they would be able to to ship with out it getting distorted. you buy cheap tubing benders that get the job done quickly. this is the one i use at the shop.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3976_200353976

2) i would do all the brake lines at one time rather than doing segments. its fairly cheap to do and i will keep you from having to do it again later. as for diameter, im not sure. im sure you could find something by doing a quick search.

3) it wont hurt to bench bleed it so i would. if i remember correctly, you cant double flare stainless steel lines (maybe its aluminum). i would stick with regular old brake line.

double flaring tools are extremely easy to use. i use a cheap oreillys double flaring set and it works great. just remember to go slow and straight otherwise your gonna have a crooked flare and youll leak break fluid. you should pratice a few times before you go right into fixing the lines.

 

You can get pre-formed lines from the dealer, or various aftermarket sources... but, why spend that much? Just get a long length of straight line, the correct size (not sure what size exactly, snip the end off, and take a section with you....) You can hand bend the line, or, use a dowel of some sort to bend it around, and save yourself some bucks.

That assumes you have the correct tools though..... flaring tool, and tubing cutter, are the only really strange one you need. That and a few wrenches. Pick up a union as well. (NOT a compression fitting, dangerous, and illegal for brakes....)

Get a couple of the longest lengths, run the line, bleed the brakes. Yer done.

 

brake lines and fittings are cheap. if you where to order pre-bent lines it would probably cost you as much as the amount of brake line, fittings and tools would cost you to buy from the tool store. you are better off to replace all the brake lines. if you don't you will most likely blow one of the brake lines you did not replace when you go to bleed the brakes. you may also want to spray some of the fittings with some penetrating oil so the old nuts or bleeder screws will not break and cost you more money.

 

Get the 20' roll and save your self trip back to the store. The longest straight length will not be enough to replace enough of a section after putting in your bends.

3/16 is the diameter. Practice the double flare a few times (with 20 feet you have some playing room). From what I've read, the single flare is prone to break at the flare, idk.

If you choose to do so, you can also replace the spring wrap armor, pretty cheap, just a b!tch to find...but you can get it Here at a damn fine price.

for those tight bends ( I kept kinking with a dowel) these things actually works...who would have thought.

might as well replace both left and right sides while your under there, it doesn't add that much time, just a bit of a hassle, but better another 2 hours then lost breaks coming down the off ramp.

Just trace the bends from the bad section with the new section, piece of cake...kind of.

 

Thanks for all your quick replies guys, my gain as I set to tackle this job. Guess I know what I'm going to do this weekend.

Again thanks.

 

A whole weekend? Heck, unless you have to work 'outside', shouldn't even take you a whole Saturday....unless you don't know which direction to turn the wrench....

Or have kids, them things always screwing up my repair day plans.

Of course it took me 3 weeks of an hour here, an hour there, rusted on drums, wrong parts, etc.....

 

I'd get the pre bent one from the dealer, or that stainless one from eastwood. That line sucks bad enough to get it through where the frame/body to where it connects at the front. And not to mention, the gas tank needs to be pushed out of the way. I loosened the straps and with a 2x12 about 16inches long and a jack underneath to hold the tank, I was able to push the tank towards the drive shaft . It gives just enough room to get the old one out of the clips and install the new one.

 

I just recently lost 2 brake lines. First time i replaced the whole line the goes from left to right, under the hood. that rotted out. I told my self the next time i had free time id redo the whole truck. By the time that rolled arounf i lost another brake line. The one from the proportioning valve block to the dist. block. I ended up ripping every line out of the truck, and Replacing them with Stainless Steel 3/16 line. I ordered the kit from Jegs, 20 feet was just enough to do the whole truck.(I Have a short bed std. cab) Or you can buy lines already flaired with the nuts on them. I rented a flaring tool from Auto zone and spent a 2 weekends on it. Be sure to use plenty of penetrating oil to break the lines free. The alum. prop. block is very soft metal, be extremely careful tightening the lines. If you plan on keeping the truck i advise you do some preventive maintenance. I live in a really busy area and think about how lucky i was to avoid an accident both times. Autozone,adavanced auto and pepboys all sell flaired lines.

 

Don't know the status of your rear wheel cylinders, but mine starting leaking. I had to replace them anyways because the bleeder screw was a rusted mess.