control arm help
Have two foot wide tires.... hell, the truck might even float. 
Amateur
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Surf City
I'm pilfering this info b/c I'll be doing this myself. I'd say hell no to heim joints. They won't last, especially considering your abuse. 
Johnny Joints from Currie Enterprises:
step 1. order parts.
step 2. cut pipe to length.
step 3. insert bungs
step 4. weld bungs
step 5. insert bushings/instal joints and bushings into sleeves or whatever part you ordered.
step 6. adjust for caster/camber. .
Approximate reference lengths --
3" Lift - 1/2" Longer than stock.
6" Lift - 1" Longer than stock.
Johnny Joints from Currie Enterprises:
step 1. order parts.
step 2. cut pipe to length.
step 3. insert bungs
step 4. weld bungs
step 5. insert bushings/instal joints and bushings into sleeves or whatever part you ordered.
step 6. adjust for caster/camber. .
Approximate reference lengths --
3" Lift - 1/2" Longer than stock.
6" Lift - 1" Longer than stock.
Make your Control arm adjustable, i.e. weld in bungs on both ends, one end right hand threads, & the other end would be left hand threads. This would allow you to adjust the caster as needed. Me, personally, I would use a Johnny joint on one end & rubber or uethanan(?) on the opposite end. You will need to have a little flex or the mount on the frame / axle will crack.
I'm in the process of gathering parts for the same mod. I'm using delrin on one end & uerthane on the other.
NT
Amateur
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Already done and you can't beat the quality
http://www.rokmen.com/suspension/con...ckage-227.html
If using the stock mounts the arm should be the same length as stock. You want the axle to return to the bumpstop. If you make the arms longer the axle will hit in front of the bumpstops. This may also add steering issues (binding, bending, etc)
http://www.rokmen.com/suspension/con...ckage-227.html
If using the stock mounts the arm should be the same length as stock. You want the axle to return to the bumpstop. If you make the arms longer the axle will hit in front of the bumpstops. This may also add steering issues (binding, bending, etc)
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
X2 on this lay out, But my .02 worth.............
Make your Control arm adjustable, i.e. weld in bungs on both ends, one end right hand threads, & the other end would be left hand threads. This would allow you to adjust the caster as needed. Me, personally, I would use a Johnny joint on one end & rubber or uethanan(?) on the opposite end. You will need to have a little flex or the mount on the frame / axle will crack.
I'm in the process of gathering parts for the same mod. I'm using delrin on one end & uerthane on the other.
NT
Make your Control arm adjustable, i.e. weld in bungs on both ends, one end right hand threads, & the other end would be left hand threads. This would allow you to adjust the caster as needed. Me, personally, I would use a Johnny joint on one end & rubber or uethanan(?) on the opposite end. You will need to have a little flex or the mount on the frame / axle will crack.
I'm in the process of gathering parts for the same mod. I'm using delrin on one end & uerthane on the other.
NT
Good of you to add to it though as not everyone knows such details. Kudos to you on the elaboration. The type of join on each end is certainly preference. Some ppl use Heims with good experience, but imo I don't care to rebuild them every year.As for the $700 arms, they are pretty good for stock replacements, I just wouldn't pay that much. Making them can be done for cheaper, but admittedly you've got to know what you're shopping for. For the same price, non-adjustable I'd just go straight to DC long arms. Another couple hundred for fully adjustable kit. Just comparing another kit with more options at an acceptable price bump. I've never come across that set, so that is good to see the set for direct replacement of stock CAs.
Amateur
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Surf City
No. 6 of the line denotes adjustable. Good of you to add to it though as not everyone knows such details. Kudos to you on the elaboration. The type of join on each end is certainly preference. Some ppl use Heims with good experience, but imo I don't care to rebuild them every year.
As for the $700 arms, they are pretty good for stock replacements, I just wouldn't pay that much. Making them can be done for cheaper, but admittedly you've got to know what you're shopping for. For the same price, non-adjustable I'd just go straight to DC long arms. Another couple hundred for fully adjustable kit. Just comparing another kit with more options at an acceptable price bump. I've never come across that set, so that is good to see the set for direct replacement of stock CAs.
Good of you to add to it though as not everyone knows such details. Kudos to you on the elaboration. The type of join on each end is certainly preference. Some ppl use Heims with good experience, but imo I don't care to rebuild them every year.As for the $700 arms, they are pretty good for stock replacements, I just wouldn't pay that much. Making them can be done for cheaper, but admittedly you've got to know what you're shopping for. For the same price, non-adjustable I'd just go straight to DC long arms. Another couple hundred for fully adjustable kit. Just comparing another kit with more options at an acceptable price bump. I've never come across that set, so that is good to see the set for direct replacement of stock CAs.
$100 for materials & parts.........???
It all comes down to personal preference.
NT
