Yes 1.290
265/75R16
Yes

 

It really shouldn't be doing that then..... How steep/long is the hill?

 

1.5 mi. not that steep
I'm sure Wh1t3Nukle can confirm it is not that steep
I have been driving this grade for over 34 years with several different trucks and never an issue.
I think I am going to buy new Calipers and Rotors, don't know what else to do

 

Mine did something similar, but with the rear brakes. They would get really hot, and if you jabbed the brakes, the rears would lock (or rather ABS would activate). It was the master cylinder. I don't really know why exactly (something sticking in MC and not letting off all the pressure off the rear brakes I guess)...but I changed the rear slaves, brake hardware, and drums and that didn't fix it. I changed the master cylinder and it fixed it. Also, when I took the shoes off of the rear brakes, the slave cylinders would push out on their own. Never felt them drag, but they would hold just enough pressure to activate before the front brakes had a chance to do much stopping.

If you're going to do the throwing parts at it method like I did, I'd start with the cheapest stuff first. The rubber brake lines can collapse and hold a little pressure on the front calipers. That might be the cheapest thing to replace first. Not advocating parts throwing. Just saying you might want to throw the cheapest parts first if you're gonna throw. lol

 

In retrospect, might try some decent pads first. I've driven vehicles (for a short time) with no rear brakes at all, and they never got smoking hot. Maybe those pads do indeed suck that bad. If so, they shouldnt be allowed to sell them, though.

 

Unless you have some cheap replacement rotors on there from a previous owner..... changing parts probably isn't going to help.

There is indeed something wrong in the system there...... jack up the front end, have a friend stab the brakes, and then try and roll the tires.... see if they are just being slow backing off on the pressure. Might just be a case of soft lines collapsing internally, and not allowing pressure to bleed off as quickly as it should.

 

When you took the old pads off,were the inside and outside ones worn even? Or were the inside ones worn down more? If so you have a sticky caliper.

Any discoloration on the rotors?

 

I had a gen 1 that did the exact same thing. Smoke rolling out of the wheel well off the brakes on 1 side. The outer seal of the front axle was bad, axle lubricant was leaking onto the brakes & smoking off, making it seem like they were overheating when they were not. Check the axle seal & fluid level.

 

Old Pads are worn even.
No noticable discoloration on rotors.
No leaking seals or grease.
Both brakes are smoking even, if you spit on the rotors, it is like throwing water on a grease fire.
Is there a way to disable the ABS, to eliminate it as a possible cause ?

 

I want to remind of the MC and concur with inspecting brake lines.

I'd test on the heill with a friend. Once it starts heating up, pull over, yank the jack up to the front to lift and try to spin the wheels. I'm thinking delayed caliper release, which still points back to pressure relief of MC.