5 inch coil spring and block lift help?
#1
#2
Coils are just a straight up swap. Blocks you are going to need to remove the u-bolts, put the blocks in, and then get longer u-bolts.....
Grab the 95 factory service manual from the faq section here, procedures for doing this kind of thing will be in there. (not necessarily installing a lift, but, replacing the parts in question.)
Grab the 95 factory service manual from the faq section here, procedures for doing this kind of thing will be in there. (not necessarily installing a lift, but, replacing the parts in question.)
#3
Best bet is to go here http://www.skyjacker.com/images/pdf/D501K-H.pdf it will give you all the info needed on how to install a 5" kit. I also hope you have all the rest of the parts to go with the coil spring and blocks.
#4
if he is just doin the coils then thats kinda like adding a 2" leveling kit and 3" lift springs.... in a way.... so he should need the rest of the kit would he? i just bought 3" lift coils and i have it leveled and got told 3" was the max i could go without needing the new arms and all. so i dunno it seems like it would be the same thing to me... if he did 5" coils and 3" blocks in the back it should work... and that would still clear 35s.
#6
#7
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#8
The op is installing 5" coil springs in the front and blocks in the back, were does this leveling kit come into play? You go up 5" in the front you need the rest of the right parts to match.
Under NO circumstances are SKYJACKERŽ coil springs to be used in conjunction with any type of coil spring or spring tower block/spacer. The use of coil spring block/spacers will allow ANY coil spring to exceed its designed stress and travel loads allowing it be overstressed, oversprung,
fatigued, and possibly break.
Last edited by merc225hp; 02-04-2012 at 08:11 PM.
#9
#10
You can't get by doing that, You have been misinformed.
By not using longer upper and lower control arms you are moving the axle back about 3/4- 1 inch, this is going to put the steering, tracbar, swaybar all out of whack. Using a stock non adjustable tackbar with 5" of lift will move the axle over to the driver's side by about 1-2 inch's or more, this will cause your truck to dog track and eat up tires faster than you think. It will also steer like sh*t, handle like sh*t and no shop will be able to align it. Not having a drop pitman arm will also have some major effects on the steering geometry.
Try a search on lift kits and parts there are lots of threads that will back up what I am talking about. I do have a 5" Skyjacker lift in my truck so I do have some knowledge on this subject.
By not using longer upper and lower control arms you are moving the axle back about 3/4- 1 inch, this is going to put the steering, tracbar, swaybar all out of whack. Using a stock non adjustable tackbar with 5" of lift will move the axle over to the driver's side by about 1-2 inch's or more, this will cause your truck to dog track and eat up tires faster than you think. It will also steer like sh*t, handle like sh*t and no shop will be able to align it. Not having a drop pitman arm will also have some major effects on the steering geometry.
Try a search on lift kits and parts there are lots of threads that will back up what I am talking about. I do have a 5" Skyjacker lift in my truck so I do have some knowledge on this subject.