Hi I have been watching this thread. Sounds like you have a fun problem on your hands.

From the book

Code 53 is triggered when there is a fault in the logic module. When code 53 is triggered the power limited will not be lit and the system will not enter limp mode.

Before replacing the logic module, do troubleshoot drivability issues. Check the wiring and connections from the logic module to the power module. Clean and re-grease the connectors with dielectric grease. Check the wiring from the O2 sensor to the harness. If the signal wire is grounded it will cause code 53. If that all fails, you may need to replace the logic module.

A drivability issue is defined as high or low idle issue, which includes the idle speed dropping when coming to a stop or slowing, erratic idle, codes presenting such as those related to injectors, O2, TPS, AIS, or coolant/air charge. These codes may present with or without the power limited light showing.

To troubleshoot drivability issues like those above or low fuel economy take the following steps first. Do this before replacing parts.

This is something I wrote some were. This has helped a lot in finding problems. Start at one end and work to the problem this way you are not jumping around.

These trucks are all computer controlled the voltage at the computer from the battery is critical. Low voltage can be attributed to several things. First, suspect the battery itself. Be sure it is good and able to give the system the proper voltage. If the battery is good that doesn’t mean that the proper voltage is getting to the battery.

If the wiring between the battery and the computer has aged it may have lost some of its ability to transfer that voltage. So, check the battery terminals for corrosion. Remove the terminals and clean the post as well as the terminals where they touch post. Then on the other end of the ground side it bolts to the engine. Check that point to be sure that the wire is solidly attached to the terminal and solidly attached to the engine.

Check the wiring of the harness under the hood. As our cars age the wire’s insulation also ages. The heat of the engine tends to harden the insulation. Then with the vibrations this insulation can flake off. If the insulation does flake off it exposes the bare wire which can connect to other bare wires or short to the engine and chassis. If you find this condition you need to replace the area or length of wire that is bare. This can be done by splicing a new wire to replace the section of wire that has no insulation. This would explain the engine stalling if you **** the hood / doors.

Next check the vacuum hoses and tubes.

The heat affects the vacuum hoses and tubes the same way as the wires. Over time, the heat of the engine hardens vacuum lines, which can then crack. Check every hose and tube for cracks, spits and loose connections. If you find a problem correct it. If you do locate one hard rubber hose it may be time to replace all the rubber hoses. Be sure to check the connectors too. These are made of plastic and also can crack. Even if they don’t break the cracks can still cause leaks. These should be replaced but be careful. Some of them have what is referred to as an “orifice.” An orifice is a very small passage for vacuum which is in line with a larger tube or hose. For the exact size of the orifices check the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your engine. But usually they are about .020” to .030” inches in size.

With the battery, wiring, connectors and vacuum lines to all be known to be good there is one last step. The connectors at the computer should be inspected and cleaned. Remove one at a time from the computer and clean the connectors. It is a good idea to use some contact cleaner made for electronic connections.

In summary:

Check the battery for proper voltage
Check the battery terminals to insure they will make a good connection
Check the wiring of the harness under the hood for broken, frayed and possible shorting.
Check the connectors to be sure they will make good connection, have no corrosion, are clean then re-greased before reconnecting them.
Check the vacuum hoses and tubes for cracks
Check the vacuum connectors for cracks and replace any that are found to be bad with the correct part which may include connectors with an orifice

Once all the diagnosis has been completed then determine if the problem still presents. If so then you know the problem related to the code 53..

Let us know.

 

Unplgged or unscrewed from the pipe?

 

unplugged

 

You need to unscrew it, the point is not to screw up the computer, it's to let the exhaust gasses escape from somewhere. If it runs significantly better, your cat is plugged.

 

changed the computer for 50 bucks and the truck is runnin good, hope it was my only problem thanks for the help everyone

 

the truck has been runnin now since my last replay and its runnin good i had to cut the exhaust off tho which i dont mind sounds better

 

i have a 97 1500 with 5.2 and when its cold and i start it it runs fine till it gets to normal op temp then the check engine and gen lights flicker and then truck dies. if i try to start it again the check engine and gen lights wont come on and i have no fuel pump prim or spark...same prob ur having?

 

Have the charging system tested. Battery,alternator at your local parts store.