1995 ram engine cuts off , help !
well,in the 1995 manual the pressure it say from 35 to 45 psi when started,and must keep pressure at more than 24 psi for 5 minutes after engine off.
,i have connected the tester by throttle right side on the gas rail,
in the 2001 manual it say must say at 49.2 psi
so i guess is normal for the 1995 at 41-42 psi...
,i have connected the tester by throttle right side on the gas rail,
in the 2001 manual it say must say at 49.2 psi
so i guess is normal for the 1995 at 41-42 psi...
This varies sometimes by year model, so if the manual says 35-45 for the 95 and since you are holding pressure, that should be goo. Pressure is higher for later year models. I don't know when it changed.
i am think other solution,and i dont know if this was done after the engine rebuild was done,maybe this why i may have few problems,
somewhere someone said if "fuel sync reset " was done after the rebuild,
so maybe here maybe a problem,if was not done,
also ,i have to find out if that crank sensor is good,need to check how to test it out,
found this info about it,
"""
How do I know if I have a bad crank position sensor?
You will know that you have a bad crank position sensor by how your engine idles, how your pistons fire, or how you accelerate. It will usually be more noticeable as you raise the RPM's. With a bad or faulty sensor, you engine may misfire causing motor vibration or backfires. You may also experience hesitation while accelerating or shaking during engine idle. In the worst case scenario, you won't be able to start your car.
>>>>>>
so maybe will try and see maybe thats where my problem is...
somewhere someone said if "fuel sync reset " was done after the rebuild,
so maybe here maybe a problem,if was not done,
also ,i have to find out if that crank sensor is good,need to check how to test it out,
found this info about it,
"""
How do I know if I have a bad crank position sensor?
You will know that you have a bad crank position sensor by how your engine idles, how your pistons fire, or how you accelerate. It will usually be more noticeable as you raise the RPM's. With a bad or faulty sensor, you engine may misfire causing motor vibration or backfires. You may also experience hesitation while accelerating or shaking during engine idle. In the worst case scenario, you won't be able to start your car.
>>>>>>
so maybe will try and see maybe thats where my problem is...
Crank sensor can indeed cause significant problems, but unfortuneately, other things can creats similar symptoms. Go to the FAQ/DIY section and download a service manual. Should be a way to test it listed there. You could also pull it out (behind head on pass side - PITA to get to) and look at it. Others have found metal shavings on it, which will create problems.
If the end is worn off or if there are shavings, it will to be checked to see why. They are easy to damage. Takes an allen wrench to take it off or a 7?16 socket I believe. Watch the heat shield on firewall - it can cut your hands up like stuffing a cat in a well.
Last edited by gdstock; Feb 24, 2012 at 11:26 PM.
okay,today i decide to go ahead and take the crank sensor off to see what is going on with it,
pain to take it out,of course,
anyway,take it out look clean,and i said ,i will just put a new one in ,went to auto zone and buy one put up ,start the truck ,now my truck rpm goes up and down ,then up and down and then shuts down,hmmm,that not good...
i took positive and negative cables out from the battery and wait 5min + and also touched the two +/- so to reset computer,and after that put everything back and still doing the same thing!,
no check engine light but by turning the key 5 times,the check engine light told me code 12 and 55,
12 is for battery that was disconnected and 55 end of testing.
so i went back to the autozone and i told the guy that my old sensor did not do that!!,so he order other one ,maybe there is something wrong with the new sensor!,
now,the 2 sensors the look the some ,but the old one had some a little difference to it,look:
old:

new:

autozone purchased:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...90514_0_0_1277
is there any difference to it? because i see that the old one has some 2 metal line in to it,and the new one does not!?
is there any other trick maybe that when changing a crank sensor that i may have to do?
or do i need to adjust the new crank sensor in any way? or just bolt it down?
also a small video how the engine is doing:
http://youtu.be/LgLiXM5oxgs
i have pressed on the gas few times ,but at the beginning of the video in till it stooped ,that what is doing...
any advice will appreciate!
pain to take it out,of course,
anyway,take it out look clean,and i said ,i will just put a new one in ,went to auto zone and buy one put up ,start the truck ,now my truck rpm goes up and down ,then up and down and then shuts down,hmmm,that not good...
i took positive and negative cables out from the battery and wait 5min + and also touched the two +/- so to reset computer,and after that put everything back and still doing the same thing!,
no check engine light but by turning the key 5 times,the check engine light told me code 12 and 55,
12 is for battery that was disconnected and 55 end of testing.
so i went back to the autozone and i told the guy that my old sensor did not do that!!,so he order other one ,maybe there is something wrong with the new sensor!,
now,the 2 sensors the look the some ,but the old one had some a little difference to it,look:
old:

new:

autozone purchased:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...90514_0_0_1277
is there any difference to it? because i see that the old one has some 2 metal line in to it,and the new one does not!?
is there any other trick maybe that when changing a crank sensor that i may have to do?
or do i need to adjust the new crank sensor in any way? or just bolt it down?
also a small video how the engine is doing:
http://youtu.be/LgLiXM5oxgs
i have pressed on the gas few times ,but at the beginning of the video in till it stooped ,that what is doing...
any advice will appreciate!
Last edited by bosanci28; Feb 25, 2012 at 07:58 PM.
These trucks really don't like aftermarket parts in critical locations.... Crank sensor being right there at the top of the list. I am not sure that the old part is factory either..... Granted, the dealership parts are expensive...... but, they actually work. Which is more than can be said for most of the aftermarket fellers.....
You need to verify your plenum. If that is leaking, nothing else is going to do much.
You need to verify your plenum. If that is leaking, nothing else is going to do much.
thanks for replying,
i have contacted the dealer and the guy said that his crank sensor
has the 2 lines at the tip also,so i guess that maybe a difference from my old one to the new one from autozone.
i went back to autozone ,and they order other one,maybe theirs is defective or something....
and maybe that's why my engine is doing all this rough running,they dont like aftermarket or that new one is bad,
also i dont know if this has a problem with whatever is happening but i was low little on gas ,and i put 10gal ,but all the idling ,i dont think is from the gas being low.
thanks,
i have contacted the dealer and the guy said that his crank sensor
has the 2 lines at the tip also,so i guess that maybe a difference from my old one to the new one from autozone.
i went back to autozone ,and they order other one,maybe theirs is defective or something....
and maybe that's why my engine is doing all this rough running,they dont like aftermarket or that new one is bad,
also i dont know if this has a problem with whatever is happening but i was low little on gas ,and i put 10gal ,but all the idling ,i dont think is from the gas being low.
thanks,







