Freeze plug...crapped itself
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Austin, TX
Good job and good write up. Booboo on head will heal - battle scar!
Makes me think I should probably order a set of brass plugs to keep on hand for that day mine decides it want to take a dive! That way I can order the brass and not have to wait.
Makes me think I should probably order a set of brass plugs to keep on hand for that day mine decides it want to take a dive! That way I can order the brass and not have to wait.
I will add one bit of info. Remove the negative battery cable before taking the starter off.
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 194
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From: Alabama / Georgia
I totally did that too... damn my forgetfulness! I'll edit it at the beginning...
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
steel $7.49 Part # 381-4014
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...reeze+plug+kit
brass $12.99 Part # 381-8010
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...reeze+plug+kit
block is 1-5/8.
head is 1-1/4.
one on the back of the block is 1-1/4
the other is 1-5/8
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 194
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From: Alabama / Georgia
I couldn't get brass, and I needed one in a hurry, so I just put a steel one back in.... If you can get brass, go with those. They are 1 5/8ths. I would be really surprised if the parts store didn't have 'em, they should only be a couple bucks.
They are dead easy to change. For the rear one there, disconnect the battery, drop the starter motor, and just set it on the control arm. (I didn't disconnect the wires either.) Use a screwdriver, or similar prying device to lever it out. They come out fairly easy. Not like you care if you destroy it taking it out... Once you have it out, hit the hole with some sand paper. (be aware, coolant WILL come out when you remove it.... no matter how much you think you drained out.) Put a thin bead of RTV around the new one, and use a socket that just fits into it to drive it in. Make sure you drive it in STRAIGHT. The edge of the plug should be just below the edge of the hole it fits in. Once it is in, let the RTV cure for at least an hour before refilling the cooling system.
Since that one looks so bad, and you are going to be right there.... I would change the one behind the engine mount as well. Have to pull the mount. I used a jack, and a short length of 2x4 to support the motor.
They are dead easy to change. For the rear one there, disconnect the battery, drop the starter motor, and just set it on the control arm. (I didn't disconnect the wires either.) Use a screwdriver, or similar prying device to lever it out. They come out fairly easy. Not like you care if you destroy it taking it out... Once you have it out, hit the hole with some sand paper. (be aware, coolant WILL come out when you remove it.... no matter how much you think you drained out.) Put a thin bead of RTV around the new one, and use a socket that just fits into it to drive it in. Make sure you drive it in STRAIGHT. The edge of the plug should be just below the edge of the hole it fits in. Once it is in, let the RTV cure for at least an hour before refilling the cooling system.
Since that one looks so bad, and you are going to be right there.... I would change the one behind the engine mount as well. Have to pull the mount. I used a jack, and a short length of 2x4 to support the motor.
HeyYou son a biscuit eater...(j/k, much love.) SO, I should have listened to you -although when reading this over again I don't recall seeing it, but either way... there is a HORRENDOUS leak behind my driver side engine mount... and I pray it is the freeze plug... I was driving home from work and being as I have the next two days off, I floored it out of the parking lot in my 5 speed and what happened? My engine temp sky rocketed to 260+.... I immediately pulled over, got out, and basically watch my truck take the longest **** ever.
I limped it home after I put about 2.5 gallons of water in the system and that brought it back to about 195... it held for whatever reason on the way home... I suppose crap in the system blocked up the hole....
Now that it is cool, I've been outside fidgeting with the damn thing and cannot seem to get enough lift (2.25 ton jack, 15" or so lift(I think)) on the motor to release the tension on the motor mount. I've done as others have suggested and that I've read is supported the engine by the oil pan with a length of wood between the jack and pan... It seems to just lift my truck up as if I'm changing a tire. Maybe I'm not putting enough lift behind it to raise the motor from the mounts? I didn't want to push my luck too far, as IMHO, supporting the engine by the oil pan is a little iffy.
I removed my starter, I see the freeze plug that I replaced from this original post is in great condition and not a single leak around it. I was only able to remove one bolt from the motor mount which is on the engine side that seems to be directly under the freeze plug as from that area its still leaking all the water out that I put in it...
So my question is, is there a better way? Engine hoist? Anyone have a YouTube link? I'm searching right now, but wanted to get this post out there... as I only have today and tomorrow to get the problem fixed. I refuse to take it to a shop... even though I now work for a parts store and have several commercial accounts I can call on... Now if they let me use their lifts and such for free... that's a different story...
Thanks guys!
TLDR; Freeze plug leak behind driver's side engine mount, how do I get to it to replace it?
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
I used a six inch piece of scrap 2x4 and stood it up on the jack, and jacked against the oil pan rail. (carefully......) You WILL lift the truck on the suspension some, as you are relieving some weight off the suspension. Just pay attention to what is going on, so you don't drop anything.....
I think on the frame side of the mount, it's actually a slot, not a hole, that the engine mount bolt goes thru... so, I don't think you have to pull the bolt, just loosen it up some. (and that way, if it drops, the bolt will catch in the mount as well.) having it nice an loose while you are jacking... you will be able to tell when you have the weight off.
I think there are only three bolts for the motor mount holding it to the engine itself.... once it's out of the way, its really easy. I used a large socket, and a six inch extension to drive the new one in. You can actually get a straight shot at it.
Told ya ya should have done it when you were there.
I think on the frame side of the mount, it's actually a slot, not a hole, that the engine mount bolt goes thru... so, I don't think you have to pull the bolt, just loosen it up some. (and that way, if it drops, the bolt will catch in the mount as well.) having it nice an loose while you are jacking... you will be able to tell when you have the weight off.
I think there are only three bolts for the motor mount holding it to the engine itself.... once it's out of the way, its really easy. I used a large socket, and a six inch extension to drive the new one in. You can actually get a straight shot at it.
Told ya ya should have done it when you were there.