I can never find my original thread again. anyway, I did a compression check from fron to back on both side and got 120 all on drive side and 120 but a 50 on the very back of Passenger drive side. I thought I was going to get lucky and didnt have a head gasket. I had the 1999 Dodge Truck with the 318/ 5.2 in it with only 133,000 miles. Time to work on the tear down this weekend. Im sick right now so my strength just isnt there.

 

So you have a blown head gasket?

 

Thats what I am believing. I couldn't find my first post to add to it. I have been loosing water and did have water on the dip stick but didn't see any in the oil itself but I haven't drain the oil this round either. The driver side is all 120psi and the 3 cylinder from the front of the motor are 120psi but the one in the back on the motor is only 50. Tried it twice. IT took me awhile but the motor was still warm when I checked. I thought I was going to be lucky. lol I just figured there would be more than one cylinder low. Thats what throws me off. I am thinking of pulling that side valve cover off this weekend. Right now I have a crazy cold taking my strength out of me.

Is there something else I should try before accepting that the head gasket is blown?

 

Burnt exhaust valve I'd assume would cause low compression on just one cylinder. Water loss wouldn't be an issue there but it could be from something else...

You can hold a piece of paper up to your tailpipe after starting the engine (must be cold engine temp) and if the paper gets sucked against the tailpipe intermittently, it's likely a burnt exhaust valve considering you have low compression.

Just a thought...

 

Did you do a wet and dry test? If the readings are higher on the wet test, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings could mean a bad valve.

 

I'd be concerned that it might be a cracked head. It's a possibility worth steeling yourself for.

 

Thats where I am not sure. It doesn't blow white smoke and all the plugs look the same. Im not sure about what you mean on the wet and dry test? The Hayes book isn't very clear as in terms like walking through and test ( trouble Shooting) The truck has never raised even close to the half way point on the gauge. Its been maybe 200 if that in temp. I expected to see fluxing psi on the cylinders but they are all exact just for the one. Thats why I am scratching my head and thought maybe thats the cylinder where the leak at? I thought I would pass the information in here with people who are more incline than I am at making sure what the problem is and what to look for. Thanks Guys. I sure hope the head isn't cracked. I dont have that money at the moment to replace.

 

A dry test is when u put the gauge in as is into the spark plug well. A wet test u put a ,small amount of oil in the well before hooking up the compression guage

 

Yeah, I felt dumb after I Google it. lol I will try that in the morning if we dont get rain here. I am thinking no matter what. Its going to have to be pulled down to the block, This is just going to determine more about the cost I would be looking into? Pulling the vavle cover is going to at least let me see if there is water up there. Other than water loss, dip stick and smell. I dont have the normal signs of a gasket. no dripping out the tail pipe or white smoke. I didnt have any over heating or anything like that but I was told that since it seemed to be that since I lost a radiator that was about a year old. it started to leak on the driver side at the bottom. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

If it's a gasket or cracked head or something then it just gets pulled down to the block. If it needs re ringing then it's probably time to pull the whole engine. The wet dry test can help you decide which way you want to go so you don't expend the effort tearing down a junk engine then realize you need to pull the whole thing out for replacement/overhaul.