2000 ram a/c issue help
If you go from one extreme to the other, I think you should hear the door thump on it's stops..... (and you should hear it whether the engine is running or not......) aside from that, I would imagine it's pretty friggin' quiet. If it's just the little coupler feller, you don't have to pull the dash to fix that.
Adding refirgerant to a system without a vacuum does not allow sufficient refrigerant into the system.
Take a look at this video:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Take a look at this video:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Adding refirgerant to a system without a vacuum does not allow sufficient refrigerant into the system.
Take a look at this video:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Take a look at this video:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
When it freezes up, the liquified refrigerant cannot pass through the sytem as evaporator may also freeze up. Adding refrigerant at atmosphere allows only about 30% charge (depening on temp and humidity - but that's too technical to explain, and it has been WAY too many years since I let my HVAC license lapse). But if the system is low enough (which I am betting it is), no cool air wiil come out.
Gotta have a vacumm before charge. Not going to work without sufficient charge, and cannot get sufficient charge without vacuum. And somehow need to find why refrigerant leaked out - or it will leak again. Costs about $1 an ounce if I recall correctly.
Gotta have a vacumm before charge. Not going to work without sufficient charge, and cannot get sufficient charge without vacuum. And somehow need to find why refrigerant leaked out - or it will leak again. Costs about $1 an ounce if I recall correctly.
that was an interesting video but i did not have the nice guages i just used the one that came with the can lol that has always worked in the past i looked on that website heatertreater i guess ill pull that little black box off and see if its that peice that broke i hope its something simple thanks guys
You can actually top off a charge if there is quite a bit in there, but from empty, gotta have vac. You can do it without gauges, such as the hose kit on the can from auto parts store. Check your local parts store to see if they have a vac pump on their tool loan plan.
I did this a little over a week ago its still at 35psi I was always under the assumption the blend door moved when you switched it from AC to heat vents etc. Guess ill be doing some more digging around in my truck
Mode door is the one that controls which vents the air comes out of. There's a couple other doors in there as well.
There is a blend door and a mode door. If doors are out of whack, you will be blowing air throught the wrong coil - heat instead of cool.
I cannot remember the capacity, but with adequate vacuum pulled, 12 oz of refirgerant will have about 0 lbs of pressure. It then goes up from there with more added. More pressure won't help - the air cannot be in the system. It takes up space for refirigerant.
I cannot remember the capacity, but with adequate vacuum pulled, 12 oz of refirgerant will have about 0 lbs of pressure. It then goes up from there with more added. More pressure won't help - the air cannot be in the system. It takes up space for refirigerant.
Last edited by gdstock; Mar 20, 2012 at 11:29 AM.







