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2000 ram a/c issue help

Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by clarke83
HeyYou so am i supposed to hear a noise when i move the temp control **** i hear all kind of noises going from defrost to floor or vents to floor etc. they all work fine so that door directs the are am i going to have to pull the dash
If you go from one extreme to the other, I think you should hear the door thump on it's stops..... (and you should hear it whether the engine is running or not......) aside from that, I would imagine it's pretty friggin' quiet. If it's just the little coupler feller, you don't have to pull the dash to fix that.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:32 PM
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Adding refirgerant to a system without a vacuum does not allow sufficient refrigerant into the system.

Take a look at this video:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Adding refirgerant to a system without a vacuum does not allow sufficient refrigerant into the system.

Take a look at this video:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WblfmWnFPEc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Yeah, but, it should do something..... at least cool a bit. I will grant that the system won't be as efficient as it should be though......
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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When it freezes up, the liquified refrigerant cannot pass through the sytem as evaporator may also freeze up. Adding refrigerant at atmosphere allows only about 30% charge (depening on temp and humidity - but that's too technical to explain, and it has been WAY too many years since I let my HVAC license lapse). But if the system is low enough (which I am betting it is), no cool air wiil come out.

Gotta have a vacumm before charge. Not going to work without sufficient charge, and cannot get sufficient charge without vacuum. And somehow need to find why refrigerant leaked out - or it will leak again. Costs about $1 an ounce if I recall correctly.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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that was an interesting video but i did not have the nice guages i just used the one that came with the can lol that has always worked in the past i looked on that website heatertreater i guess ill pull that little black box off and see if its that peice that broke i hope its something simple thanks guys
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:47 PM
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You can actually top off a charge if there is quite a bit in there, but from empty, gotta have vac. You can do it without gauges, such as the hose kit on the can from auto parts store. Check your local parts store to see if they have a vac pump on their tool loan plan.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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I did this a little over a week ago its still at 35psi I was always under the assumption the blend door moved when you switched it from AC to heat vents etc. Guess ill be doing some more digging around in my truck
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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So without the vac the system is not getting enough 134 and freezing in the lines therefore I am getting a false reading. because its blowing hot like the heater is on
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by clarke83
I did this a little over a week ago its still at 35psi I was always under the assumption the blend door moved when you switched it from AC to heat vents etc. Guess ill be doing some more digging around in my truck
Blend door controls air temp only. Just directs how much air goes thru which core.

Mode door is the one that controls which vents the air comes out of. There's a couple other doors in there as well.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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There is a blend door and a mode door. If doors are out of whack, you will be blowing air throught the wrong coil - heat instead of cool.

I cannot remember the capacity, but with adequate vacuum pulled, 12 oz of refirgerant will have about 0 lbs of pressure. It then goes up from there with more added. More pressure won't help - the air cannot be in the system. It takes up space for refirigerant.
 

Last edited by gdstock; Mar 20, 2012 at 11:29 AM.
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