Brake Lights Not Working - Crap!!
[QUOTE=bekins01ram;2749293]Man, you guys are rough. And here I was feeling slightly good, for helping a fellow dodge driver out. Yes, they are on the first page of the DIY section, but if you noticed, the OP was an "actual OP" to the forum. Maybe he doesn't use computers/ forums much, considering he mentioned being an older ifellow. Maybe he's not as computer savvy as y'all are. He had said he'd spent 20 minutes looking for it, so instead of being an *** and telling him to look harder, I provided the link, and was happy that not only him, thanking me, but another forum member thanked me for posting the link. Sheesh!! I can understand forcing people that have 100+ posts on the forum to look for their own stuff, cause they should know how by now, but dang, the guy was looking for a simple answer, and I know I've had my butt chewed on here for not searching hard enough. Let's keep new members around, not run them off. Maybe, someday, this guy will be teaching us all something new.[/
Being a somewhat newbie myself I totally umderstood where he was coming from so thats why I was trying to direct him to the right place but couldnt post the link bcz Im on my phone. But I do understand what Zman is saying too. My response to him was a tongue in cheek one. :-)
Being a somewhat newbie myself I totally umderstood where he was coming from so thats why I was trying to direct him to the right place but couldnt post the link bcz Im on my phone. But I do understand what Zman is saying too. My response to him was a tongue in cheek one. :-)
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From: MI
Originally Posted by Service Manual
SWITCH CONTINUITY TEST
(1) Check continuity between terminal pins 5 and 6 as follows:
(a) Pull plunger all the way out to fully extended position.
(b) Attach test leads to pins 5 and 6 and note ohmmeter reading.
(c) If continuity exists, proceed to next test. Replace switch if meter indicates lack of continuity (shorted or open).
TERMINAL PINS
J9405-88
Fig. 9 Stoplamp Switch Terminal Identification
(2) Check continuity between terminal pins 1 and 2 and pins 3 and 4 as follows:
(a) Push switch plunger inward to fully retracted position.
(b) Attach test leads to pins 1 and 2 and note ohmmeter reading.
(c) I f continuity exists, switch is OK. Replace switch if meter indicates lack of continuity (switch is open).
(1) Check continuity between terminal pins 5 and 6 as follows:
(a) Pull plunger all the way out to fully extended position.
(b) Attach test leads to pins 5 and 6 and note ohmmeter reading.
(c) If continuity exists, proceed to next test. Replace switch if meter indicates lack of continuity (shorted or open).
TERMINAL PINS
J9405-88
Fig. 9 Stoplamp Switch Terminal Identification
(2) Check continuity between terminal pins 1 and 2 and pins 3 and 4 as follows:
(a) Push switch plunger inward to fully retracted position.
(b) Attach test leads to pins 1 and 2 and note ohmmeter reading.
(c) I f continuity exists, switch is OK. Replace switch if meter indicates lack of continuity (switch is open).
If I read the manual correctly, that indicates a good switch. I compared it with the new switch I purchased, and the test results are identical.
The plunger on the old one only extends about 1/4" between fully extended and fully depressed. The new one is about 3/4". I know that it self adjusts in place, but is it likely that it is not getting the length of travel that it needs to open/close the three circuits properly?
I think my next move is to test the leads on the plug connector?...See if I have power to one side of terminals 5/6. If I'm right, a jumper between them should make the lights come on, unless there is a problem upstream or downstream.
Looks like I'm going to be following Alice down the rabbit hole...
~ Blank Stare
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From: MI
Thanks for the lightning fast reply!!
~ Blank Stare
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From: MI
OK, I decided before I installed the new switch, I would test for power with a multi-meter, at the plug. Guess what?, none of the three pairs has any power, engine running or not. I even made a direct jump between leads 5 and 6 (stop lamp circuit) - nothing.
This leads me to believe that it is not the switch. Bypassing the switch should form a closed circuit, eliminating the switch, altogether, and therefore making plunger position a moot point - right?
So, which direction should I start testing? - one step at a time back to the battery or some relay, right?
Welp, back to the rabbit hole. If I find an invisible cat, with a huge smile, I am definately going to shift my priorities, and hire a good shrink...
~ Blank Stare
This leads me to believe that it is not the switch. Bypassing the switch should form a closed circuit, eliminating the switch, altogether, and therefore making plunger position a moot point - right?
So, which direction should I start testing? - one step at a time back to the battery or some relay, right?
Welp, back to the rabbit hole. If I find an invisible cat, with a huge smile, I am definately going to shift my priorities, and hire a good shrink...
~ Blank Stare
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From: MI
When nothing makes sense - start over from the beginning...
...and then...viola! The fuse was burned out.
Now I am very worried about seeing that cat, because I am SURE that I checked that fuse in the very beginning, when I was swapping them around, to make sure that it was good.
OK, so mystery solved.
Almost.
Seems I destroyed the old switch, trying to put it back in. OK, no problem, I'll use the new one, right?
Except that I can't get it to go in, and make a 30 degree turn, as per the instructions and diagram in the Chilton's. (I can't find a diagram in the service manual, just a minimal description of the process.) You see, the steering column is in the way of the body of the switch, preventing that clockwise twist. Which makes me wonder - is it clock wise when looking at it from the driver's perspective, or from the firewall perspective?
There's only one position to start the switch in the hole, as it has a tab on the switch, and a notch in the mounting bracket. I laid on my back on the floor, and had my son depress the pedal as hard as he possibly could, and the switch slips right into the mounting hole, but as mentioned before, the steering column prevents the 30 degree turn, to secure it.
I am not confident to turn it what seems to be the wrong direction, for concern of breaking it. It doesn't seem to fit in any other position, either.
I thought I saw some pearly whites in a tree this afternoon...but I just wasn't sure. I'm keeping some phone numbers on hand, just in case.
Any Thoughts?
~ Blank Stare
...and then...viola! The fuse was burned out.
Now I am very worried about seeing that cat, because I am SURE that I checked that fuse in the very beginning, when I was swapping them around, to make sure that it was good.
OK, so mystery solved.
Almost.
Seems I destroyed the old switch, trying to put it back in. OK, no problem, I'll use the new one, right?
Except that I can't get it to go in, and make a 30 degree turn, as per the instructions and diagram in the Chilton's. (I can't find a diagram in the service manual, just a minimal description of the process.) You see, the steering column is in the way of the body of the switch, preventing that clockwise twist. Which makes me wonder - is it clock wise when looking at it from the driver's perspective, or from the firewall perspective?
There's only one position to start the switch in the hole, as it has a tab on the switch, and a notch in the mounting bracket. I laid on my back on the floor, and had my son depress the pedal as hard as he possibly could, and the switch slips right into the mounting hole, but as mentioned before, the steering column prevents the 30 degree turn, to secure it.
I am not confident to turn it what seems to be the wrong direction, for concern of breaking it. It doesn't seem to fit in any other position, either.
I thought I saw some pearly whites in a tree this afternoon...but I just wasn't sure. I'm keeping some phone numbers on hand, just in case.
Any Thoughts?
~ Blank Stare
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
When nothing makes sense - start over from the beginning...
...and then...viola! The fuse was burned out.
Now I am very worried about seeing that cat, because I am SURE that I checked that fuse in the very beginning, when I was swapping them around, to make sure that it was good.
OK, so mystery solved.
Almost.
Seems I destroyed the old switch, trying to put it back in. OK, no problem, I'll use the new one, right?
Except that I can't get it to go in, and make a 30 degree turn, as per the instructions and diagram in the Chilton's. (I can't find a diagram in the service manual, just a minimal description of the process.) You see, the steering column is in the way of the body of the switch, preventing that clockwise twist. Which makes me wonder - is it clock wise when looking at it from the driver's perspective, or from the firewall perspective?
There's only one position to start the switch in the hole, as it has a tab on the switch, and a notch in the mounting bracket. I laid on my back on the floor, and had my son depress the pedal as hard as he possibly could, and the switch slips right into the mounting hole, but as mentioned before, the steering column prevents the 30 degree turn, to secure it.
I am not confident to turn it what seems to be the wrong direction, for concern of breaking it. It doesn't seem to fit in any other position, either.
I thought I saw some pearly whites in a tree this afternoon...but I just wasn't sure. I'm keeping some phone numbers on hand, just in case.
Any Thoughts?
~ Blank Stare
...and then...viola! The fuse was burned out.
Now I am very worried about seeing that cat, because I am SURE that I checked that fuse in the very beginning, when I was swapping them around, to make sure that it was good.
OK, so mystery solved.
Almost.
Seems I destroyed the old switch, trying to put it back in. OK, no problem, I'll use the new one, right?
Except that I can't get it to go in, and make a 30 degree turn, as per the instructions and diagram in the Chilton's. (I can't find a diagram in the service manual, just a minimal description of the process.) You see, the steering column is in the way of the body of the switch, preventing that clockwise twist. Which makes me wonder - is it clock wise when looking at it from the driver's perspective, or from the firewall perspective?
There's only one position to start the switch in the hole, as it has a tab on the switch, and a notch in the mounting bracket. I laid on my back on the floor, and had my son depress the pedal as hard as he possibly could, and the switch slips right into the mounting hole, but as mentioned before, the steering column prevents the 30 degree turn, to secure it.
I am not confident to turn it what seems to be the wrong direction, for concern of breaking it. It doesn't seem to fit in any other position, either.
I thought I saw some pearly whites in a tree this afternoon...but I just wasn't sure. I'm keeping some phone numbers on hand, just in case.
Any Thoughts?
~ Blank Stare
Removing the Brake Light Switch
- Open the driver's-side door and remove the lower column cover using a Phillips-head screwdriver.
- Look at the lower panel under the instrument panel and find the hood release lever, park brake release lever and Data Link Connector (an electrical connector) attached to the lower panel.
- Unfasten and remove the hood release lever, parking brake release lever and Data Link Connector, using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
- Detach and move to the side the lower panel from under the instrument panel, using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
- Locate the brake light switch mounted on the upper arm of the brake pedal. Depress the brake pedal with your hand and hold it in that position. With your free hand, turn the brake switch about 30 degrees counterclockwise to release it from its mounting bracket. Look carefully at the release position of the switch so that you insert the new unit in the same position during the installation procedure.
- Pull the switch straight out of the mounting bracket, let go of the brake pedal and unplug the switch electrical connector.
- Look at the small lever located on top of the new switch. The lever slides to one side to engage the switch plunger. Make sure not to move this lever until the end of the installation.
- Plug in the new switch electrical connector.
- Depress the brake pedal with one hand and, with your free hand, install the switch in its release position in its mounting bracket.
- Turn the switch about 30 degrees clockwise until it snaps in place and let go of the brake pedal.
- Slide the small lever on top of the brake light switch to engage the switch plunger.
- Install the lower panel, hood release lever, parking brake release lever and Data Link Connector, using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
- Attach the lower column cover with the Phillips-head screwdriver.
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New Member
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From: MI
Installing the New Brake Light Switch
- Look at the small lever located on top of the new switch. The lever slides to one side to engage the switch plunger. Make sure not to move this lever until the end of the installation.
- Plug in the new switch electrical connector.
- Depress the brake pedal with one hand and, with your free hand, install the switch in its release position in its mounting bracket.
- Turn the switch about 30 degrees clockwise until it snaps in place and let go of the brake pedal.
- Slide the small lever on top of the brake light switch to engage the switch plunger.
- Install the lower panel, hood release lever, parking brake release lever and Data Link Connector, using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
- Attach the lower column cover with the Phillips-head screwdriver.
- I didn't see a lever - I'll have a second look at the switch.
- Connector fits fine, and is out of the way.
- Brake depresses fine, although it is a pain in the posterior to do so, with head and hands under the dash.
- I can not turn the switch - there's the snag - the steering column is in the way, and forces to switch to lose alignment, before it can be turned the full 30 degrees. Am I supposed to turn it "top over" to the passenger's side, or over to the driver's side?
(The way the mounting hole is cut, and the way that part of the switch fits in the hole makes me think I have it oriented correctly. That is to say, there is a very small tab on the switch "collar", if you will, that seems made to fit in the hole, aligning the tab with the notch in the mounting hole. It looks like it should, and I have been assuming it turns to the passenger, but I don't want to break it, turning it the wrong way.)
I guess I'll get under there and have another look at how the two fit together. It's hard to see, due to problems with vision, and how close the switch is to my face.
- Any idea which direction I'll be turning that lever, assuming I can find it?