I got lucky when I drained and refilled my system but I have heard that these trucks can be a PITA to burp all the air out of the cooling system. I don't know if thats your issue but if the water pump and thermostat is installed properly and working correctly then seems like theres gotta be blockage of some type somewhere in the system...

 

Well, tomorrow I'm going to try filling the system as best I can and seeing if that makes any difference.
Then reluctantly, I'll pull the t-stat and if it still get too hot, I'll pull the water pump.
Process of elimination right?

My worst fear is that there is a blockage in the water jackets of the block.. if that's the case, it's time to sell.

It's been a great truck so far.
My dad bought in '05 with 99k on it. It now has 126k pretty low miles for a '95

 

You still have an air pocket in the cooling system. Run it with the rad cap off, and keep a hose handy to top it off. (or, a couple gallons of distilled water.......) Mine was a right bear to burp after I did the plenum.

 

your water flow path is correct.

its extremely unlikely that the water jackets in the block are obstructed. they are pretty big.

it could be possible that the t-stat opening is obstructed with an old, broken t-stat from the past, or a broken gasket, or something.

the big fact that you've got no water flow out of the engine is a major problem and something's wrong. with t-stat opened (or better- removed), it should be pumping water out the top hose like mad.

you need to inspect the water path to confirm the pump is working. you can likely slip a rod up the bottom pipe of the water pump to see if if still has vanes attached to the pulley.

 

It could be a head gasket issue, such as what plagued me after my engine rebuild. The only way to verify that is to have the radiator coolant tested for hydrocarbons.

 

*Update

Ok so I tried to fill the system with coolant and massaged the upper and lower rad. hoses.. also lifted the truck so the rad cap/fill was the highest point on the truck.
The temp went back up to almost red again then drop to about 3/4 the way up the gauge... woo hoo I thought.
After about 15 seconds, it jumped way past red and off the scale!

Back to work again.
Shut it down and removed the new t-stat.
Refill, start again- w/o the rad. cap

Now I finally saw some movement of water in the radiator and the upper hose was getting warm, then nice and warm
After 20 mins. of running the temp stayed stable at the very low end of scale and I could actually touch the valve covers for as long as I wished.
Doesn't seem to be running hot at all (no oil or grime on the block smoking/burning no smell of coolant)
I squished the top rad. hose and felt a woosh of water when releasing it.

With the heater on high for 15 mins. +, it got warm but never really hot.
The hoses to the heater core were very warm too.
With the hose going to it very warm and the return hose being much cooler.

I really don't believe the new t-stat wasn't opening.
I think maybe it was just sitting in a nice bubble of air.

For now I'm going to run it w/o a t-stat. At least 'til it passes smog.
I'm in So.Cal so it never get so cold that it would be an issue.

Think maybe I'll try the little hole in the t-stat flange down the road.

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated


Now to figure out why the a/c compressor kept engaging even with the a/c turned off.

 

in my 2001 the AC will engage:
1. If you have the setting where the FEET AND HEAD vents are used. just feet or just head, it will not come on.
2. Any setting for the defrosters. The compressor is supposed to come on, it helps with removing moisture from the air so you don't get foggy windows.

It is a normal thing. Most cars have the compressor come on at random just to keep refigerant and lubricant going through it during winter months when you never use the AC.

 

Hmm, I'll try setting the fan settings different next chance I get.
I do know the the fan was set to blow air only at the feet.
I noticed this thing engaging because it happened so often... 3 or 4 times a minute.
Was pretty much 15 seconds on, 8 seconds off,15 seconds on.. etc.
Out of 1 minute, I'd say it was on for 40 seconds.

 

There's a chance you could have a blockage in the radiator or even the block itself.