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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #51  
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Since he has a 96, he shouldn't even have EGR.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Since he has a 96, he shouldn't even have EGR.
Nope, no EGR.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:00 PM
  #53  
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I would still pull the O2 sensor out just to see if it runs better.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I would still pull the O2 sensor out just to see if it runs better.
I'm putting on a new walker cat and replacing my o2 sensors with NTK.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Also going to do the Hughes plenum and 180* t stat once I save up the money
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #56  
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Ok, reviving this thread. So, after being away for awhile I got the new exhaust on and drove her to work a few days. The third day, she died on me when I pulled into work. Come to find out, the distributor clamp, more specifically the retaining bolt, came loose and the distributor turned when the engine died.
So, I put the engine at TDC and realigned the distributor. After a few minor adjustments she was starting and running again.
This is what I was seeing:
Easy start, initial idle 1000 rpm, 650-700 once warmed up.
When put under load the rpm would drop below 500.
Tried to drive it around the place I work and only made it about 1/4 mile total distance and then she died again.
Now she won't start and I can smell excess fuel like she is flooding herself.

I am seriously about to just haul this thing to the junkyard and be done with it.

I know I have to get the fuel synched, but I can't even get it to run consistently to get it to a shop
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 11:45 AM
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Haul it to my house, I will take it off your hands.

What is missing when it won't start? Getting spark? Fuel? If it is dumping excess fuel, you either have a bad O2 sensor, or, bad Engine temp sensor. Or a wiring issue on either. Temp sensor won't necessarily set a code, as the PCM has no clue what temp it is outside, so, it has nothing to compare values to, to see if the sensor is telling the truth or not. It will set a code if the PCM thinks the engine isn't warming up properly though, not sure just what all the criteria are for that one though.

Just quitting while driving is going to be cam, or crank sensor. If it is just stalling at stops, acting like it is flooding out, that's likely to be the ECT, or leaking injectors. Possibly even a bad TPS.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Did you get the fuel sync done?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #59  
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I'm getting plenty of fuel, spark and air. O2 may be a culprit, i'll pull it and see how she runs without it. ECT, TPS are both brand new. I am getting P1391, which i know is intermittent loss to crank sensor, but the crank sensor is brand new as well. Temp guage is registering during warm up.
When I turn on the defroster it will bog down and die. All the other fan settings are fine. Also, the AC will cause it to drop rpm drastically as well.
Not thinking it is the TPS, throttle is responsive and holds a fairly consistent idle.

The guy I bought it off of was half a retard, so it's been a major learning experience while I'm trying to fix all his mistakes.

I can get it started, but she is still incredibly shakey under load.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by billcart
Did you get the fuel sync done?
not yet, need it running well enough to get it to a shop first.
 
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