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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1999blkdakrt
The bolts are NOT the issue, but why cut the bolts when you can go buy 15 grade 5 bolts 1/4-20 1/2" in length for about 2 bucks.
Intake bolts are not really TTY either when torqued to a whopping 12 ft lbs, while at hardware store just buy some stainless bolts with stainless lock washers, you can reuse them over and over.
That way when your steel plate pushes the gasket out you will not have to but intake bolts again...
Why is then so many have problems with the bolts shearing??

BTW, I bought your plate.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dodge dude94
Why is then so many have problems with the bolts shearing??

BTW, I bought your plate.
They torqued them to 12.5 lbs.

Anti seize FTW....
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Adobedude
They torqued them to 12.5 lbs.

Anti seize FTW....
12.5 lbs isn't much though.
Hell, I torque my bike lug nuts tighter than that! Then again, that bike has a engine, but still!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:51 PM
  #24  
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I am assuming they sheared the bolts when removing not installing, the genuis that engineered the steel pan on the bottom of the intake also engineered the intake bolt holes that fill with water and corrode away all the way into the head.
So 1992 the kegger comes out, gaskets blow out left and right within the 2 years, obviously aware of the issue, Chrysler continues to replicate the stupid design for another 9 years even tho they made numberous changes to the kegger, guess they love eating the costs of warranty work. Must have had bigger issues like trannys going bad faster than plenum gaskets.
Thanks for the great idea for my next thread.
Top 10 issues with 2nd gen rams.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #25  
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Sadly, that all makes sense now.
wow. :\
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #26  
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ive read tht the bolts bottom out before completely squishing gasket down is tht true or do i just need to order a thicker plate or just shorter bolts
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 03:26 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by KxRideRon125
ive read tht the bolts bottom out before completely squishing gasket down is tht true or do i just need to order a thicker plate or just shorter bolts
Get one of Brian's (1999blkdakrt) aluminum plates or the problem WILL be back later.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-JEEP-A...481768&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 04:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bwdakrt
Get one of Brian's (1999blkdakrt) aluminum plates or the problem WILL be back later.
Can you please prove that shorter bolts will not permanently solve the problem?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 2x1972
Can you please prove that shorter bolts will not permanently solve the problem?
The only one that can prove that is yourself the next time you have to replace the belly pan gasket again because the steel pan and the aluminum intake expand and contract at different rates and don't let the gasket seal.

It's your truck and your choice to make.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 05:09 PM
  #30  
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I already fixed mine, using shorter bolts, but the way you said it makes it sound like you have facts to back it up. I am just curious. At the variations of temperature that these engines see, I really have a hard time believing that the difference in metal cooling time would be a problem.
 
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