couldn't change it. Puller was lost in the move and I didn't want to wrench on it with the picklefork and have a tie rod pop. Not saying I am the hulk, but this truck sucks right now.

Only a matter of time before you see everything with "made in the USA" stamped on it sitting in the junkyard. Or in my case "Hecho en Mexico" because I have a saltillo dodge.

Saving for a tundra.

 

All this cuz you need new tires? Geez, people like you are making toyotas job easy. Not that they are really any better, but consumer reports isnt biased at all, right?

 

three different places told me it wasn't the tires. I can't see any visible inner wall separation either. I have seen pics of examples on this forum and my tires look perfect compared to them.

My problem is that Chrysler is ignoring this. Take a read through this:
http://www.arfc.org/complaints/2001/...g/problem.aspx

At least toyota addresses the problems instead of turning a blind eye because they are going bankrupt. It is not a secret that Chrysler is a crappy company. Heck, they practically aren't even american anymore.

 

Apparently, the death wobble problem got worse over time? The suspension didn't change at all over the years of the second gen.... The page you linked referred to mostly 01 model year for DW.....

I found an interesting article here on the topic, and evidently, the stabilizer DOES play a role. One of the suggestions he had was to replace the factory track bar, with a unit that has urethane bushings on both ends. (third gen conversion) ((bear in mind, the article deals pretty much with Jeeps... but, same suspension as we have.)) He also recommended the steering box brace. Have a read, see what ya think.

 

Yes, that was for 2001 because I searched 2001. Do a search for 3rdgens. Many of them have the DW.

I read about the steering box brace and looked at numerous youtube videos. It is hit or miss with it helping (mostly miss).

About replacing the trac bar with urethane bushings:
If it never did this before, and it was the trac bar...why would putting ANOTHER brand new one with urethane bushings help any?

Steering box brace:
Noticed some people on youtube who said that didn;t fix their truck. Not paying for a brace (band aid) when the warranty company will pay for a new box.

I am going to try steering box adustment in 1/4 turn intervals. If that doesn;t work,then I am going to get the tires inspected inside and out.

 

I had DW on my 94 Cummins. It mainly happened when I had the 35" tires on it that were not E-rated. They were rated for the weight, but not 10 ply. I put 10 plys on and it helped but did not solve the issue. I put the steering box brace on and that helped a ton. While getting a new box may help for a while (it wont be new tho, it will be re-man). The brace isnt just a band aid, it fixes a design issue.
The thing that totally fixed the DW issue with my truck.....a 3rd gen trackbar conversion. Once again, not just a band aid. It fixed a design flaw. The double shear bushings at both ends instead of a far undersized ball and socket design makes TONS more sense.

Oh, also check your control arm bushings...if those are shot they will contribute to DW.

Just because some of these things didn't come from the factory on the 2nd gens, doesn't mean they are bandaids.

Travis

 

I just got done with this problem last november. Like you I was getting a wobble and shaking ect, I tried diffrent tires u-joints ball joints(3 were bad) tie rod ends and it kept up. I took it to get the state inspection and they failed my truck. Too much play in the steering..........It was my steering box. There was no adjustment left in it. Bought a new one $135. I feel your problem will be solved by a steering box.

 

Couple of things to check

1: Remove the rear drivshaft from the truck and check/inspect the cross-joints, next reinstall the drive-shaft and check it for run-out ( info on how to do this is in the fsm), mark the shaft and the pinion yoke so as it gets put back together the same way.

2: Check all your motor mounts and trany mount

3: Check all your pulleys on the front of the motor, make sure none have to much play

4: Check your rear diff, if you have the facktory lsd when they go it can make a vib, pull the cover and look for bits of metal in the bottom of the case.

5: Make sure your e brake is not part stuck on, or sticky rear brakes.

6: Warped rotors or rear drums.

7: Sticky or stuck front brake caliper

 

What I did today

1. Put the front axle on jackstands
2. Got under the truck while an assistant turned the wheel from side to side.
---No play whatsoever in the steering box. I saw a video where it had kind of a circular up and down motion (the guy put on the steering brace thing, not my case). It is actually very tight, But the truck only has 58K miles and had the steering pump replaced where the techs at the dealership probably adjusted the box.

Ball Joints:
One thing I saw: When the passenger side tire left the ground, I could see the wheel pop outward (the bottom of the wheel was kept inward when on the ground and popped out about 1/4 inch when lifted up). That was the side that has abo0ut a 1/8 inch of up/down play in the lower ball joint and slight play in the upper. There is also a visible gap that is a bit less than 1.8 inch when looking at it. That is probably contributing to the wheel slightly popping out. That could mess up alignment numbers also, right?

I checked the driver side ball joints, and they are rock solid. No play whatsoever.

Question is:
Does 1.8 inch of play in the ball joints affect the geometry so much that it could cause 1/4-1/2 inch of wobble on one tire that would shake the whole front (ball joint play coupled with the lack of precise alignment)?

I was hoping it was the steering box, but I don;lt have any play. The only front suspension part that was not replaced was the passenger side ball joints. I was told by my father in law mechanic that the ball joints should have NO play.

Merc, thanks for the ideas. I do have play in the steering pump pulley (it is slightly wobbly due to it looking like it is ever so slightly warped).

 

If you were to say add a front axle cross joint packing it in with the bad ball joints it might cause a vibe. The bad ball joints are not letting the axle run a true horizontal in the normal way, add a cross joint that is packing up and it might make a vibe. 50/50 call.

Edit: Your father in law is dead right very little to no play in ball joints.