http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-DU...e35be4&vxp=mtr

I find the collectors in the stock location to be very apealing. what problems might I run into?

 

Leaks at the collector..

When you bolt those bad boys in, don't 'complete' one side before working on the other.. you gotta tighten them down in even increments so not all the torque/leverage is on just one of the collector bolts... If you do it that way, and use good quality donuts in the junction, you'll have done yourself a high favor..

Oh.. and for gaskets, opt for remflex.. that is the only header gaskets I'll ever use again.. if you try them, you'll most likely feel the same..

 

Leaks at the colector? As in the welds are bad? Or its tough to get the donuts right?

 

No donuts on the collectors on those. The "rounded" shape provides the sealing surface for the y-pipe. You want both sides in position before you tighten the bolts..... (headers should already be securely bolted to the motor though.)

If those are the same ones another member (whom I just can't recall his name...) bought and put on, they are good pieces, and he didn't have any trouble with the install.

 

Was it Augiedoggy? Refrence https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...headers-3.html I sent him a pm but his seller is nolonger listed on ebay.

I forget are shorties better for upper or lower rpm range? Oh and how much better mpg might I get?

 

To see much of any improvement from any headers, you need to address the y-pipe as well. Where the two pipes come together at the cat is the single biggest restriction in the exhaust. Those headers, in combination with something like the magnaflow high flow cat (that comes with the y-pipes....) would give you more bottom end grunt, and a tad more robust power band. Not to mention it sounds better...... It won't be anything earth shaking, but, it will be a noticeable improvement in power. Don't expect to see ANY benefits on the fuel economy side though.... at least, not until you get over how nice it sounds when you are heavy on the go-pedal.

Shorties will help in the entire rpm range, as they simply flow better than the stock manifold. Primary tube diameter is what determines the headers 'primary operating range'. Larger tubes are more geared toward upper RPM power. The 1 1/2 inch tubes on those will be good for low end grunt.

 

thanks, I will be gutting my cat(not the pet) soon I think, I will admit when gas was cheaper and I applied the flow master in conjunction with my cai I had a hard time keeping my foot out of it, that was 5 years ago, I am older and more money conscious these days, so maybe after the initial week of fun hot rodding and an extra $100 tank of gas I will learn to keep my foot out of it.

Aside from a week of pb blasting all the bolts is there any suggestions for not breaking any bolts? I know the old la engins were popular for breaking manifold bolts, can I expect the same from these?

 

Probably.

Its a rather bolt-hostile environment..... might wanna hit 'em with chems, rap on 'em with a hammer a couple times, and then try and break them loose. Only turn each bolt about a quarter turn, until you have ALL the bolts on that manifold broke loose. Then you can take 'em out.

 

Most likely they will send you 3/8 bolts and on top of it, you will need to modify the cheap chinese header in the spark plug area, they will need to be notched in order put the spark plug boot on properly, very tight. Eventually crack the spark plug porcelean.