^^^ Cool, thanks for the facts. Was it blown out in the longer bolt gaps? I still think that if the steel pan is the issue, its due to the natural flex in plate steel vs the natural rigidity of the aluminum plate. Not that it would change the fix... But until now I had never heard of one failing after using shorter bolts, and I like to know why stuff does what it does.

 

Something else I will add to the discussion. The GM LT1 manifold used on the 350 in the mid to late '90's was an aluminum intake with a steel belly pan just like our Mopar version.

It didn't really occur to me until I did this gasket change this weekend so I dug out some pics I took of an LT1 manifold I had and was working on and sure enough, same symptoms. Oil in the intake, blown gasket, steel pan, aluminum intake. Nothing concrete, but it adds to the evidence that the difference in material chosen may have a lot to do with the frequency of the failure of the gasket.

Either way, that gasket needs attention. Best of my knowledge based on my newest experience, you can't go wrong with an aluminum plate and a new gasket WITH shorter bolts.

 

I agree that the aluminum pan will solve the problem, but I did not consider it a necessity. I fixed mine with shorter bolts, we will see if it ever gives me greif. However, I still have a hard time with the expansion/contraction arguement. Most engine blocks are cast iron, and people have been using aluminum heads and intakes on them for 50 years and not having gasket issues.

 

I'm totally with you on that. With all the aluminum items bolted to iron blocks I had a hard time believing that spending time and money on an aluminum plate wasn't a complete waste of time and money.

In the case of cylinder heads...I wonder if the fastener pattern combined with the MUCH higher torque rating, makes a big difference. Intake gaskets and silicon are thick and forgiving...maybe enough to make a less noticeable effect.

Then look at timing covers and valve covers. They do tend to leak a lot no matter how well you choose your components and as careful as I am, those things always tend to leak too.

Like I said, up until Saturday morning, I was a skeptic of the aluminum plate fix. Now, however, I see it as a viable option, and compared to the amount of time and work it takes to change it...there is no reason NOT to because it certainly can't hurt and it might in fact help. LOL.

Sorry we completely derailed the topic. Point of all this...check to see if the pan gasket is shot and leaking. If it is...change it now before it starts affecting other things.

 

Yea, those are all good points. Hopefully mine will last until I build a better motor for the truck.

 

I would two tone it with rhino liner on the bottom half

 

I actually thought about two toneing it LOL and all the plenum talk was very informitive. I went to the wrecking yard today and found a great jvc deck to use for now the funny thing is it was in the spare tire compartment and sealed in the box a little dirt and creative bs and i got it for 10 bucks and it's worth 250 LOL. anyway pics comming tomorrow of progress on everything i am still thinking about the plenum fix. and trying to figure out what to do

 

If you decide to tackle the plenum gasket sooner than later, I'll post the Dorman parts kit from Rockauto.com. It has everything you need to do the change minus coolant to top off the system and silicon for where the intake gaskets meet in the valleys.

It comes with the new pan gasket, new pan bolts, new intake bolts, T-stat, gasket, intake gaskets, and crossover tube. It's a great kit for a little over $35 including shipping.

There were other things that are good to at least inspect when doing this work. Idler pulley, tensioner pulley, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, and if you haven't done it or hasn't been done in a year...a coolant flush and fill.

 

Hey sooper what's the part number?

 

Dorman # 615310

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194496