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Going to burn the whole thing

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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 95RAM360
Its always worth fixing....its probably something small and easy to fix...id try a new crank sensor like stated above

+1. Like I stated earlier, you most likely have a couple problems, and they may be overwhelming. Take one thing at a time and you will make progress.
 

Last edited by gdstock; Jul 24, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 12:40 AM
  #12  
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check the crank sensor one more time, if its got any scratching or gouging on it the flex plate ate it, this can be caused a few ways, one that no one ever checks is if it had a tyranny replaced check to make sure the the trans bolts to the block are tight, if they back out any and let it sag it lets the flex plate eat the sensor in no time and causes a lot of what your saying and it doesn't take much. 2 theirs an imperfection on the flex plate. i have had both of thous situations come through my shop.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #13  
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i'm betting that if you changed the CPS, and it started up and ran fine for one minute, thats probably how long it took for the flexplate to eat the new sensor. i'd check the flexplate to make sure its not warped or jacked up lol
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #14  
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I'll go with defective crank sensor also. Duralast I bet.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Borg warner w lifetime warranty. Going to pull it tonight when its not too hot out. Btw of all the ways to try to reach the cps, pulling the valve cover and going from the top is easiest
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #16  
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I'd take a peek at a few of the plugs and see if it's running too rich, if so check the ECT sensor behing the thermostat housing to make sure the 2 wires are connected.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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Got new ect sensor as well. The entire harness is solid and like-new all around
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #18  
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New crank sensor, little to no change. Idles slightly higher and sometimes seems slightly better. Other times it misses and backfires w no power and wot won't go past 3k RPM. Still takes a couple cranks on warm starts. Still no o2 sensors. Not doing exhaust till the running condition is figured out. Ref running rich for that reason but there seems to be a different issue

Did a compression check and the only cylinders not at 150psi were the first three on the drivers side which were all around 130-135. With a little oil they were back at 150
 

Last edited by TheBullRoars; Jul 24, 2012 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #19  
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Compression is pretty good though, and well within spec.....

Remove the front O2 sensor from the exhaust. (hang it out of the way, or, unplug it, and toss it in the truck....) Take it for a drive. See what ya get.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #20  
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Did that already. Cat was clogged and wouldn't allow truck to run. Started up w the o2 bung open. Still stumbled bad tho.

Stuck in (open?) loop now w exhaust cut off and replaced without oxygen sensors.. for the time being until it starts every crank and doesn't stumble and missing

Plug wires are routed properly

Previous to stalling and running/ no start issues i installed a 180 degree thermostat which I now read can cause the pcm to dump more fuel but I don't think it made the truck stall and it never got too hot
 
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