axle shaft stub/nut question
#1
axle shaft stub/nut question
Ok when I got around to taking the the hub off to replace the u-joint, the axle nut/castle nut was rusted on to the point I had to burn it off.
Well in the process I mess up a thread or two, and there is a spot where there is no thread so I cant take it and get it "tapped" or what ever the term is.
So I was wondering could I put washers on up to the cotter pin hole and instead of a cotter pin, get a grade 8 bolt and nut and put that in place of the cotter pin?
I don't take it off road, It isn't driven all to much, and I cant find that part locally
Thanks
Rich
Well in the process I mess up a thread or two, and there is a spot where there is no thread so I cant take it and get it "tapped" or what ever the term is.
So I was wondering could I put washers on up to the cotter pin hole and instead of a cotter pin, get a grade 8 bolt and nut and put that in place of the cotter pin?
I don't take it off road, It isn't driven all to much, and I cant find that part locally
Thanks
Rich
#2
the messed up threads are where - where the nut goes, or outside of that?
will it torque down to whatever the spec is (150-175 or so) ?
if so it'll probably be ok
you must have a high torque on that nut. you can't rely on a cotter pin or thru-bolt to hold the nut on. your life depends on it.
if it won't torque down in the normal nut position, you'll have to shim out some threads and tack weld the nut, or get a new stub shaft. (junk yard)
edit - did not mean to imply that you could weld it on without torquing it. you can shim it out - torque it - then tack weld it if its too far out to catch the cotter pin hole. but you must have proper torque on the nut.
will it torque down to whatever the spec is (150-175 or so) ?
if so it'll probably be ok
you must have a high torque on that nut. you can't rely on a cotter pin or thru-bolt to hold the nut on. your life depends on it.
if it won't torque down in the normal nut position, you'll have to shim out some threads and tack weld the nut, or get a new stub shaft. (junk yard)
edit - did not mean to imply that you could weld it on without torquing it. you can shim it out - torque it - then tack weld it if its too far out to catch the cotter pin hole. but you must have proper torque on the nut.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 07-26-2012 at 10:03 PM.
#3
#6
#7
nut is 1 11/16. thread size in nowhere near 1/4-20. its over an inch in diameter. how did you come up with 1/4-20?
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#8
I did a little googling and I came up with 3/4"-16 thread 1 1/16 diameter nut, does this sound about right?