Ok I removed the axle shafts and ring gear carrier from the diff and the pinion bearing turns freely without any kind of grinding.
It has to be something with the ring gear assembly that I am doing wrong.
It has to be something with the ring gear assembly that I am doing wrong.
Until you get the pinion depth right you will not get that gear set to work right, the crush sleeve needs to be crushed and that takes over 200ft tq to start it. Your pinion is to far out in the case.
Amateur
Make sure both bearing races for the pinion are all the way seated.I had to use a race driver kit for mine and it still took a ton of beating to get them all the way seated.
Well I have been at this for three days now, and I THINK I have it correct this time.
I don't know what happened but every time I took the rear end apart to check the pinion play it was very tight. I was using a torque wrench on the pinion nut and i tightened it to 210 ft lbs (not an easy thing to do laying on your back). I put the assembly back together and it still was too far out and making the ring gear click. I then took it back apart and used a breaker bar and my hydraulic jack to tighten down on the pinion nut. I saw it turn a little, so I put it back together and when i adjusted the side bearing adjusters I could make the noise go away if the right side bearing was about three turns further in than the left adjuster. I took it on a road test and it worked fine for a couple minutes then the noise slowly started to get louder. I jacked it back up and found that the pinion gear had loosened up and now there was a 1/16" of play even though the pinion nut was EXTREMELY tight. I guess the bearings werent seated all the way or maybe one of the races straightened out and fully seated but I couldn't get the crush sleeve to crush enough to take up the slack.
So i went through the trash and found the old crush sleeve and installed it (it was 1/16" shorter than the new one) Tightened the pinion nut to 210 ft lbs and the slack was gone. Pinion turned smoothly but had some resistance due to the bearings being compressed. I put the rear end back together and everything turns smoothly. I adjusted the backlash so it was minimal and I am waiting on the gasket to dry.
I sure hope this is the last time I have to take the cover off and drain the fluid. I am so tired of being dirty and borrowing my dads car.
I have about 21 labor hours into this job and over $290 in materials
I don't know what happened but every time I took the rear end apart to check the pinion play it was very tight. I was using a torque wrench on the pinion nut and i tightened it to 210 ft lbs (not an easy thing to do laying on your back). I put the assembly back together and it still was too far out and making the ring gear click. I then took it back apart and used a breaker bar and my hydraulic jack to tighten down on the pinion nut. I saw it turn a little, so I put it back together and when i adjusted the side bearing adjusters I could make the noise go away if the right side bearing was about three turns further in than the left adjuster. I took it on a road test and it worked fine for a couple minutes then the noise slowly started to get louder. I jacked it back up and found that the pinion gear had loosened up and now there was a 1/16" of play even though the pinion nut was EXTREMELY tight. I guess the bearings werent seated all the way or maybe one of the races straightened out and fully seated but I couldn't get the crush sleeve to crush enough to take up the slack.
So i went through the trash and found the old crush sleeve and installed it (it was 1/16" shorter than the new one) Tightened the pinion nut to 210 ft lbs and the slack was gone. Pinion turned smoothly but had some resistance due to the bearings being compressed. I put the rear end back together and everything turns smoothly. I adjusted the backlash so it was minimal and I am waiting on the gasket to dry.
I sure hope this is the last time I have to take the cover off and drain the fluid. I am so tired of being dirty and borrowing my dads car.
I have about 21 labor hours into this job and over $290 in materials
Grand Champion
Get a junk yard rear end or take it to a professional. You have no idea what you're doing and that rear end will never be right again.
Quote:
It may not be to Chrysler's specs but it is working perfectly and zero noise! Originally Posted by Jr. Mechanic
Get a junk yard rear end or take it to a professional. You have no idea what you're doing and that rear end will never be right again.
Zac






