hello everyone !!!!!
before you read any further let me add a disclaimer part of this is me venting i am not trying to offend anyone im just looking for the answer to a question.. but this issue has irritated me very thoroughly as it has those of you that have had this issue.. sorry if i offeded anyone that is truly not my intention ... with that being said
please read on


just bought this 2500 ram 4x4 1999 is the year,, long story short truck had new pad rotors wheel cyl and shoes before i test drove it.. upon the test drive lf caliper was not releasing, so i told the dealer it needed new calipers he installed them brought truck home lf caliper was still not releasing.. truck had a nice firm pedal.. sooo i replaced the front brake lines ALL OF THEM steel and rubber.. NOW sinking pedal just like having no brakes.. ive read a ton of threads on this topic (read) "rwal may be bad, change the master cylinder, rebleed the brakes like this and so on and so on.. but no one has the FIX..
so yesterday i bypassed the rwal rebled the system NO CHANGE.. pump up the brakes start the truck pedal goes to floor aha!, it needs a new master cylinder tonight i changed the master cylinder bench blead it like i was supposed to rebled the system same freeking thing only is a little slower this time..

soo at this time i have a new master cyl, new brake lines (hard and rubber) in the front, the hard line to the rear has already been replaced. new caliper, wheel cylinders.. and a spongy pedal... i have a 4600$$ piece of crap sitting in my driveway that i cant use!!! DOES SOMEONE HAVE THE FIX ???????????????

i kinda feel like this guy btw the truck is a 1999 quad cab 4x4 black on black sport edition loaded with leather and power 5.9 gas, and 124000 miles and its in fairly decent shape bodywise, just found out it was originally equipped with some fancy graphics package.. that has been removed (bummer) needs new exhaust and new tires, going to talk with the dealer this weekend and see if hell take it back before i sink more money into it that i dont have or you guys can buy it for 4600$ and if you live in michigan ill bring it to you for free!!! just take it away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks for all your help and understanding my frustration!!!!!!!!:icon_t oast:

 

Sounds like there is still some air in the system. Did you bleed it starting from the rear passenger side? You have to start from the furthest point and work your way up to the closest. I dont know if the brake distribution block could go bad and be causing this but its something to look into. Its that box with all the lines running into it and then back out. It controls the pressure difference between front and rear. Also make sure rear brakes are adjusted out, put the truck in reverse and get up to about 5 mph and hit the emergency brake.

 

Can you describe the exact process that you used to bleed the system. Most of the time if the peddle goes to the floor there is air in the lines or a leak.

 

rr, lr, rf, lf... in that order
process: open bleeder yell down, when fluid starts to trickle out close bleeder and yell release,

that is how Ive been doing it.. I am suspecting the proportioning valve the button on the top pops up when the pedal is depress, but does not go all the way back down..

i have tried bleeding the brakes with this button both depressed and pulled up with no difference when the truck is running..

 

i will try adjusting up the rear brakes more tomorrow

 

Yeah that's true too. Make sure the back drums are adjusted well.

Normally when I bleed breaks I have the 2nd person pump the brakes a few times till I get a nice steady stream of fluid coming out with each pump. I have seen it take 4 or 5 pumps before all the air is out. Once I get a steady stream I have the 2nd person slowly press the break down while I close the bleeder valve. I'm not sure if that's the "correct way" but its the way I have done it for the past 15 years or so and its always worked fine for me.

 

Always close bleeder in between pumps, if not it WILL draw air back in between pumps. I have had to run 2 whole bottles through before i got all the air out. You may want to try a reverse bleed, so easy a caveman can do it, and its a one man job. Instead of having to open and close bleeder and pump and all that jazz you use a device that you hook up to the bleeder and it forces the brake fluid up through the lines and the air out the top of the resevior. Sometimes air bubbles like to stick to the inside of the brake lines and doing a reverse bleed solves that entirely. You can purchase a reverse bleeding kit for about $75 and is well worth the time and headache you will save for the rest of your life. It also sounds like your brake proportioning valve may be malfunctioning. I will check mine tomorrow And see if it reacts the same as you described yours.

 

Adjust the rears first.

Grab a friend/helper.

Crack open the bleeder, stick your finger over the end. Have helper pump pedal several times until you are getting a solid stream of fluid. Close bleeder.

Have helper pump pedal three times, and hold it down. (good, steady pressure) Crack open the bleeder, when pedal hits the floor, close bleeder. Do that until no more air comes out. (at least three times in any event.)

Move on to the next one in line, and repeat the process. Make sure you don't run the M/C empty, or you get to start all over again.

 

Does anyone still use the baby food jar method? Fill a jar half full of brake fluid and insert one end of a vacuum line over the bleeder and the other end into the jar with fluid. that way no air can suck back in , only fluid can. still need two people. or go get a vacuum pump bleeder from harbour freight. not too expensive.

 

Does it go all the way to the floor or does it smush?

I had 2 bad master cylinders from the box at the shop. Both remans.


Just a thought.